Filet lace

Filet lace is a historic whitework technique dating back to the medieval period which uses a hand-knotted net ground as its base, embellished with darning or counted stitches.  The net is traditionally square rather than hexagonal.

Lacis patterns dominated early needlework pattern books as the technique was popular across Europe; over time, fashions in Italy moved onto other forms of lace, but lacis remained continuously in fashion in Germany until the 18th century, and sporadically until the early 20th century.  Different countries prioritised different stitches: Spain and Portugal predominantly used just point de toile (also known as linen stitch); Germany used point de toile alongside point de reprise (needle-weaving) and point d’esprit (dove eye).

Originally the thread was normally silk, although by the late 15th century, influenced by the rise in bobbin and needlepoint lace, this had largely been replaced by linen.

N.B. The term lacis can occasionally mean just the net itself, but more usually applies to the net and its embroidery. 

Image courtesy of Cleveland Museum of Art, accession number: 1920.1161