Embroidery Techniques
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Appliqué is the technique of placing one piece of fabric on top of another, larger piece of fabric, and then stitching around the edge of the smaller piece to secure it.
It is possible to use other, more decorative stitches than the ones listed below.
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Double back stitch navigate_next
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Felt padding navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Jessica Stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 2) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 3) navigate_next
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Stab stitch navigate_next
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Whip stitch navigate_next
Appliqué Stitches -
Ayrshire is a whitework technique from Ayrshire in Scotland, dating to the early 19th century. It is traditionally worked on fine muslin and is noted for its delicate eyelets, satin stitch and fine lace filling stitches.
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Basic stitches are those which are most widely used, either as a stitch in their own right or as part of another, more complex, stitch.
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Blanket stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Slip stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Straight stitch navigate_next
Basic Stitches -
Bead embroidery is the use of beads or other embellishments to enhance stitching.
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Berlin wool work is a canvaswork technique which originated in Berlin in the early 19th century. Pattern books with coloured symbols were published with various designs, from motifs of flora and fauna to copies of famous paintings.
Some of the early designs were stitched on fine silk canvas using silk thread, although later wool became more common and larger size canvases were used. Subsequent developments included the use of small seed beads, chenille thread and turkey work where the raised pile was cut to provide raised elements.
Berlin wool work is characterised by the use of bright coloured wool, often attributed to the advent of synthetic aniline dyes in the 1850s.
The formulaic nature and the bold colour choices of Berlin wool work led to it falling out of favour and the rise of the art needlework movement, and ultimately the creation of the Royal School of Needlework.
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Condensed mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Cross stitch navigate_next
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Double cross stitch navigate_next
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Florentine stitch navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Oblong cross stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Tied Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
Berlin wool work Stitches -
Blackwork is a form of monochrome embroidery generally using black thread, although other colours are also used on occasion. It can be worked as a counted thread technique which creates patterns on evenweave fabric or as freeform embroidery.
Traditionally, blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric; sometimes metallic or coloured threads are used for accents. Some pieces are worked in another single colour, most commonly red but also blue or green; very occasionally multiple colours are used in a single piece, although individual motifs tend to be monochrome.
Chaucer, writing in the 14th century, references a blackwork collar embroidered on both sides, but it is impossible to know if this embroidery was the same as that worked in the 16th century when it was used to embellish linen collars and cuffs as seen in many Tudor portraits. Some authors credit Catherine of Aragon for introducing blackwork into England and it was certainly referred to as ‘Spanish work’ but there is no conclusive evidence that she was responsible for its introduction.
By the end of the 16th century, blackwork was being used to decorate linen coifs (a close-fitting head covering) and other garments, some of which feature gold and silver thread and spangles, as well as black thread. Extant garments, particularly those which feature the flora and fauna and curving stems (known as rinceaux) which epitomise Elizabethan embroidery are often freeform embroidery, rather than counted thread. Motifs are normally outlined in black and either filled with blackwork patterns, or embellished with stitches, especially seeding to give a more naturalistic effect. This style continued largely unchanged into the Jacobean era (although contemporary references still refer to it as Elizabethan). In the second half of the 17th century counted thread blackwork was being worked on samplers, but by the 18th century its popularity had waned.
The counted thread version of the technique was revived in the 20th century when blackwork patterns started to be documented.
The stitches listed below include those used in Elizabethan ‘freeform’ blackwork as well as those appropriate for the counted thread version.
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Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Blanket stitch navigate_next
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Block trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Bricked wave (pattern) navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Chevron (pattern) navigate_next
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Closed diagonal darning (pattern) navigate_next
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Closed herringbone darning (pattern) navigate_next
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Compressed lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Coral stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Darning stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal tile (pattern) navigate_next
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Diagonal trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Diagonal wave (pattern) navigate_next
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Diagonal weave (pattern) navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pattern) navigate_next
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Diamond tile (pattern) navigate_next
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Diamond trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Fan (pattern) navigate_next
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Floral lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Grecian curls (pattern) navigate_next
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Harlequin (pattern) navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Hexagonal lozenge (pattern) navigate_next
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Holbein stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb (pattern) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘I’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Y’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Z’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Leaves (pattern) navigate_next
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Octagon star (pattern) navigate_next
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Octagonal square (pattern) navigate_next
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Open honeycomb (pattern) navigate_next
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Open lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Open zigzag (pattern) navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Rounded eyelet (pattern) navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Scattered triangle (pattern) navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Small diamond (pattern) navigate_next
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T-blocks (pattern) navigate_next
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Tulip (pattern) navigate_next
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Waffle (pattern) navigate_next
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Zigzag (pattern) navigate_next
Blackwork Stitches -
Canvaswork is a form of counted thread embroidery in which yarn is stitched through a stiff open weave canvas.
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Algerian eye stitch variation navigate_next
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Alternating cross stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Barred square stitch navigate_next
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Basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Basketweave tent stitch navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Broad cross stitch navigate_next
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Byzantine stitch navigate_next
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Cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Chequer stitch navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Condensed mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Continental tent stitch navigate_next
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Cross stitch navigate_next
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Crossed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Cushion stitch navigate_next
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Darning stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal stitch navigate_next
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Double cross stitch navigate_next
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Double linked cross stitch navigate_next
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Double straight cross stitch navigate_next
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Dutch stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Fan stitch navigate_next
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Fern stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Florentine stitch navigate_next
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Flying cross stitch navigate_next
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French stitch navigate_next
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Greek stitch navigate_next
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Half cross tent stitch navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian grounding stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian stitch navigate_next
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Jacquard stitch navigate_next
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Jessica Stitch navigate_next
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John stitch navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Long-armed cross stitch navigate_next
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Maltese cross stitch navigate_next
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Milanese stitch navigate_next
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Montenegrin stitch navigate_next
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Moorish stitch navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Norwich stitch navigate_next
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Oatmeal stitch navigate_next
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Oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Oblong cross stitch navigate_next
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Oblong double-tied cross stitch navigate_next
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Parisian stitch navigate_next
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Perspective stitch navigate_next
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Perspective stitch variation navigate_next
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Pineapple half drop stitch navigate_next
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Plait stitch navigate_next
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Plaited Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Raised spot stitch navigate_next
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Reversed cross stitch navigate_next
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Reversed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Rice stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Rococo stitch navigate_next
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Romanian couching navigate_next
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Scottish squares navigate_next
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Shell stitch navigate_next
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Sorbello stitch navigate_next
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Staggered cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Stepped fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Tied Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Tied pavilion stitch navigate_next
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Turkey rug knot navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
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Upright cross stitch navigate_next
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Victorian step stitch navigate_next
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Web stitch navigate_next
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Wild goose chase stitch navigate_next
Canvaswork Stitches -
Counted thread stitches are those which are worked on an evenweave fabric (where the warp threads are of a similar thickness and spacing to those of the weft). Stitches are counted over a set number of threads which creates very even stitches.
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Chessboard filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Cross stitch navigate_next
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Double buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Double darning navigate_next
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Elizabethan French stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan ground stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan half stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan half-and-turn stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan knitting stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan trammed half stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone band navigate_next
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Jessica Stitch navigate_next
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Long-armed cross stitch navigate_next
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Marking cross stitch navigate_next
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Montenegrin stitch navigate_next
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Raised chevron stitch navigate_next
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Sorbello stitch navigate_next
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Spaced buttonhole filling navigate_next
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Spaced cross stitch filling navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided cross stitch navigate_next
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Wild goose chase stitch navigate_next
Counted Thread Stitches -
Crewelwork is a style of surface embroidery using wool thread.
A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. Crewelwork was particularly popular in early seventeenth century Britain and it is often referred to as Jacobean work or Jacobean crewelwork. Designs from this period often featured stylised floral and animal designs with flowing vines and leaves.
Traditionally, crewelwork is embroidered on tightly woven linen twill stretched on a frame or hoop.
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Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch trellis navigate_next
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Basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Battlement couching navigate_next
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Block shading navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Burden stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Chequered chain stitch navigate_next
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Chevron stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Cloud filling stitch navigate_next
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Coral stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Cretan open filling stitch navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (closed) navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (open) navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Double herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Ermine stitch navigate_next
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Feather stitch navigate_next
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Fern stitch navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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Four-legged knot stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Heavy chain stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
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Laid work navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
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Long-tailed daisy stitch navigate_next
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Open chain stitch navigate_next
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Open fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (laid work padding) navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (split stitch padding) navigate_next
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Pearl stitch (variation) navigate_next
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Pekinese stitch navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Portuguese knotted stem stitch navigate_next
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Quaker stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Reverse chain stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Slanted satin stitch navigate_next
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Spaced buttonhole filling navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Straight stitch navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Turkey rug stitch navigate_next
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Turned satin stitch navigate_next
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Up and down blanket stitch navigate_next
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Van Dyke stitch navigate_next
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Wave stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
Crewelwork Stitches -
Cross stitch is a form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches are used to form a design on a piece of even-weave fabric.
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Cross stitch navigate_next
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Holbein stitch navigate_next
Cross stitch Stitches -
Cutwork is a form of whitework where small sections of the ground fabric are cut away. The open area is edged with stitches and, depending on the type of cutwork, may be filled with other stitches.
N.B. Cutwork should not be confused with Flat cutwork (goldwork).
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Bullion picot navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars (cutwork) navigate_next
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Buttonhole edging navigate_next
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Buttonhole edging (variation) navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Loop picot navigate_next
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Overcast edging navigate_next
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Picot navigate_next
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Ring picot navigate_next
Cutwork Stitches -
Drawn thread is a form of whitework where threads (normally either warp or weft but occasionally both) are withdrawn (pulled out) from the fabric and the edges secured, normally by weaving the cut threads into the ground fabric. The aperture will normally be square or rectangular as it is dependent on the grain of the fabric. The remaining warp or weft threads are embellished with stitches.
Drawn thread stitches are normally stitched on a relatively open evenweave fabric.
N.B. Some authors use the term ‘drawn thread’ for what we would call pulled thread stitches (those where the threads are pulled into patterns, but not cut and withdrawn).
Some authors differentiate between removing either the warp or weft threads, and removing threads in both directions. The former is known as single open-work and the latter cut open-work. Confusingly, the latter is sometimes translated as Punto Tagliato, which is the normal translation for cutwork.
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Buttonhole corner (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
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Double twist stitch navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation with buttonhole edges navigate_next
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Hem stitch (Drawn Thread) navigate_next
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Knotted border navigate_next
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Ladder hem stitch navigate_next
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Overcast hem stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel corner navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
Drawn Thread Stitches -
Elizabethan embroidery is characterised by the use of flora and fauna stitched in brightly coloured silks amongst curving stems (known as rinceaux) made from gold and silver threads. Motifs include flowers, plants, animals, insects and birds; the silks were in vibrant colours such as red, rose pink, mid greens and blues. The embroidery demonstrates different textures: motifs are often worked in needlelace stitches; the stems in braided ones and isolated spangles embellish the ground fabric.
Embroidery in this style was used to embellish clothing such as waistcoats, gloves, forehead cloths, coifs and sweet bags, and household items such as bookbindings and decorative panels.
N.B. The Elizabethan era covered the second half of the 17th century, but we are using the term to include any embroidery from the 17th or 18th centuries which is stylistically similar.
For Elizabethan embroidery worked predominantly in black thread, see Blackwork.
Image courtesy of https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81132
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Braid stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Coral stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Darning stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan back stitch filling navigate_next
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Elizabethan back stitch variation navigate_next
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Elizabethan blanket stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan corded detached buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan corded trellis stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan double ladder stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan double looped edging navigate_next
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Elizabethan double twisted chain stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan French stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan ground stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan half stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan half-and-turn stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan holly braid stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan knitting stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan Ladder braid stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan ladder stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan lark’s head ladder stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan looped edging navigate_next
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Elizabethan plaited braid stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (cherry variation) navigate_next
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Elizabethan trammed half stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan tubular Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Laid work navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
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Oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Plaited braid stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Single Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
Elizabethan Stitches -
Goldwork is the use of various types of metal threads and embellishments to adorn fabric. The majority of the metal thread remains on the surface of the fabric. Goldwork is historically associated with high-status embroidery due to the cost of the materials.
Goldwork techniques can be worked in silver or other metal threads.
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Basketweave (goldwork) navigate_next
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Bricking navigate_next
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Carpet felt padding navigate_next
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Chipping navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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Couching in a circle (goldwork) navigate_next
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Cutwork purls over soft string navigate_next
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Diaper couching (goldwork) navigate_next
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Elizabethan twist application navigate_next
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Felt padding navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Flat cutwork (goldwork) navigate_next
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Gold twist application navigate_next
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Hard string padding (goldwork) navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Pearl purl application navigate_next
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Pekinese stitch navigate_next
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Plate application navigate_next
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Plunging navigate_next
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S-ing (goldwork) navigate_next
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Soft string padding navigate_next
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Spangles held on with purls navigate_next
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Turning metal thread couching navigate_next
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Underside couching navigate_next
Goldwork Stitches -
Hardanger is a whitework technique which originates in Hardanger, Norway. It is done on evenweave linen, and is characterised by geometric motifs, the use of drawn threads and satin stitch blocks called Kloster blocks.
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole corner (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Cable stitch navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation with buttonhole edges navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Four-sided stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Picot navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
Hardanger Stitches -
Mountmellick embroidery is a floral style of whitework embroidery originating from the town of Mountmellick in County Laois, Ireland in the early nineteenth century.
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Cable chain stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Coral stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (open) navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Double feather stitch navigate_next
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Feather stitch navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Mountmellick stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (laid work padding) navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (split stitch padding) navigate_next
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Portuguese knotted stem stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Turned satin stitch navigate_next
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Van Dyke stitch navigate_next
Mountmellick Stitches -
Needlelace is the method of working detached stitches to fill an area. The design area is outlined with stitching (e.g. backstitch) and then a series of stitches are worked into the outline to form the needlelace. The needlelace itself doesn’t pierce the fabric.
Needlelace is normally found within either Stumpwork or selected Whitework techniques.
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Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Double Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Double corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan corded detached buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan corded trellis stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan lark’s head ladder stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan tubular Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan whipped cording stitch navigate_next
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Hollie stitch navigate_next
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Puncetto Valsesiano navigate_next
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Single Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Single corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Single point de Venise navigate_next
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
Needlelace Stitches -
Needlepoint lace is the term we are using in the RSN Stitchbank to describe any lace made with a needle, rather than that made with a bobbin. Some needlepoint laces are undistinguishable from their bobbin counterparts to the untrained eye.
Needlepoint lace pieces include the following elements: buttonhole and woven bars, needlelace fillings, picots, filet lace and darned net work. Needlelace stitches are listed under the entry for needlelace.N.B. Different authors use various terms used for this lace including needlelace and needle-made lace. We use the term needlelace for the technique of using detached stitches (usually a form of buttonhole stitch) to fill an area.
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Opus Anglicanum or English work is fine needlework from Medieval England done for ecclesiastical or secular use on clothing, hangings or other textiles, often using gold and silver threads on rich velvet or linen grounds. Such English embroidery was in great demand across Europe, particularly from the late 12th to mid-14th centuries and was a luxury product often used for diplomatic gifts.
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Pulled thread embroidery is a form of whitework, where threads are pulled tightly together to form designs.
The stitches are normally worked on a relatively open evenweave fabric so that the stitches pull the fabric apart to create a pattern of holes (the holes can appear to have been punched into the fabric, hence the alternative name of punch work).
N.B. Some authors use the term drawn thread for what we call pulled thread stitches.
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Barred buttonhole wheel navigate_next
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Braid stitch filling navigate_next
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Chessboard filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Cobbler filling stitch navigate_next
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Coil filling stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal chevron stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal cross filling navigate_next
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Diagonal drawn filling navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diamond Eyelet (single) navigate_next
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Double faggot filling stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan ground stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan half-and-turn stitch navigate_next
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Festoon filling stitch navigate_next
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Four-sided stitch navigate_next
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Framed cross filling navigate_next
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Greek cross filling stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb darning navigate_next
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Honeycomb filling navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Open basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Ringed back stitch filling navigate_next
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Single faggot stitch navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Square eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Three-sided stitch navigate_next
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Wave stitch filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
Pulled Thread Stitches -
Ribbonwork is the use of narrow, traditionally silk, ribbon in place of embroidery thread.
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Couching navigate_next
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Double feather stitch navigate_next
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Feather stitch navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Straight stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
Ribbonwork Stitches -
Shadow work is worked on the reverse of sheer fabric; this means that the thread some of the thread is fully visible, and some of it is viewed through the fabric.
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Silk shading, painting with a needle, long and short stitch embroidery, thread painting: this technique goes by many names but the basis is one stitch, known as long and short stitch. Most likely first practised in China, where it is more commonly known as needle painting. Archaeological excavations have found embroideries that date back to at least the 2nd century BC.
In England, silk shading was first used in Opus Anglicanum embroidery (also known as English work), a technique used in the Mediaeval period. Most surviving examples of Opus Anglicanum silk shading are seen on church work and comprise silk-shaded faces, angels and animals.
The art of silk shading is still alive and well today. It is worked extensively in China to very high standards, and The Royal School of Needlework continues to teach this beautiful technique in new and innovative ways.
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Chinese knot navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
Silk shading Stitches -
Stumpwork, a term coined in the 19th century, was known as raised or embosted work in the 17th century. It reached the height of its popularity between 1650 and 1690 when embellished caskets, pictures and mirror frames were fashionable amongst the wealthy. With the influence of the European ‘broderie en relief’, a highly padded and naturalistic form of ecclesiastical embroidery which can be traced back to the 15th century, raised work gradually became popular for domestic and decorative embroidery.
Although it was not until the mid-17th century that stumpwork reached its peak, during the Elizabethan period many of the popular stumpwork elements were found: plants of the day were worked in detached buttonhole; padding and metal work could often be found in gauntlets and expensive gloves. Alongside these similarities in technique, many of the same motifs used in the Elizabethan and early Stuart periods can be identified on stumpwork pieces.
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Buttonhole couronne navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Double Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Double corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan tubular Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan whipped cording stitch navigate_next
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Felt padding navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (laid work padding) navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (split stitch padding) navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Raised leaf stitch navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Single Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Single corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Stab stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Turkey rug stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Woven picot navigate_next
Stumpwork Stitches -
Surface embroidery, also known as freestyle embroidery, is a catch-all term which refers to any technique which uses standard embroidery threads, is not a counted thread technique and does not alter the warp or weft of the fabric.
It can be worked on any fabric, although if worked on an evenweave fabric, the weave is ignored with regard to the placing of the needle. Designs are normally drawn onto the fabric, or they can be worked by eye.
This means that the following techniques would not be considered surface embroidery:
Counted thread
Canvaswork
Drawn thread
Goldwork
Needlelace
Pulled thread
Ribbon work
Stumpwork-
Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch trellis navigate_next
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Back-stitched chain stitch navigate_next
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Basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Battlement couching navigate_next
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Blanket stitch navigate_next
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Block shading navigate_next
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Braid stitch navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Burden stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole wheels navigate_next
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Cable chain stitch navigate_next
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Cable stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Chequered chain stitch navigate_next
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Chevron stem stitch navigate_next
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Chevron stitch navigate_next
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Chinese knot navigate_next
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Closed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Closed feather stitch navigate_next
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Closed fly stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Cloud filling stitch navigate_next
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Colonial knot navigate_next
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Coral stitch navigate_next
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Couched herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Cretan open filling stitch navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (closed) navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (open) navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
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Cross stitch navigate_next
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Crossed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Darning stitch navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Diamond stitch navigate_next
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Dot stitch navigate_next
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Double back stitch navigate_next
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Double buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Double chain stitch navigate_next
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Double darning navigate_next
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Double feather stitch navigate_next
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Double herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Double knot stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan back stitch filling navigate_next
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Elizabethan back stitch variation navigate_next
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Elizabethan blanket stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan double ladder stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan double looped edging navigate_next
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Elizabethan double twisted chain stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan holly braid stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan Ladder braid stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan ladder stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan looped edging navigate_next
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Elizabethan plaited braid stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (cherry variation) navigate_next
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Ermine stitch navigate_next
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Eyelet stitch navigate_next
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Fan (pattern) navigate_next
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Feather stitch navigate_next
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Feathered chain stitch navigate_next
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Fern stitch navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Flat stitch navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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Fly stitch filling navigate_next
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Four-legged knot stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Heavy chain stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone ladder filling stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Holbein stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone band navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Jessica Stitch navigate_next
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Knotted buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Knotted cable chain stitch navigate_next
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Knotted chain stitch navigate_next
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
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Laced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Laid work navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Long and short blanket stitch navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
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Long-tailed daisy stitch navigate_next
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Marking cross stitch navigate_next
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Mountmellick stitch navigate_next
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Open chain stitch navigate_next
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Open fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Overcast stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (laid work padding) navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (split stitch padding) navigate_next
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Pearl Stitch navigate_next
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Pearl stitch (variation) navigate_next
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Pekinese stitch navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Plaited braid stitch navigate_next
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Plunging navigate_next
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Point a la Minute navigate_next
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Point russe navigate_next
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Portuguese knotted stem stitch navigate_next
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Quaker stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Raised chevron stitch navigate_next
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Raised fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Raised leaf stitch navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Reverse chain stitch navigate_next
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Reversed fly stitch navigate_next
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Romanian couching navigate_next
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Rope stitch navigate_next
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Rope stitch (variation) navigate_next
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Rosette chain stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 2) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 3) navigate_next
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Single feather stitch navigate_next
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Sinhalese chain stitch navigate_next
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Slanted satin stitch navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
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Sorbello stitch navigate_next
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Spaced buttonhole filling navigate_next
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Spaced cross stitch filling navigate_next
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Spine chain stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Square boss stitch navigate_next
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Stab stitch navigate_next
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Star eyelet stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Straight stitch navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Thorn stitch navigate_next
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Threaded back stitch navigate_next
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Threaded chain stitch navigate_next
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Threaded herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Tied herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Turkey rug stitch navigate_next
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Turned satin stitch navigate_next
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Twisted chain stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided cross stitch navigate_next
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Up and down blanket stitch navigate_next
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Van Dyke stitch navigate_next
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Wave stitch navigate_next
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Whip stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Whipped chain stitch navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Woven picot navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
Surface Stitches -
Tambour embroidery uses a hook (similar to a very fine, pointed crochet hook) and fabric tightly stretched in a frame to work a limited range of stitches. Chain stitch is by far the most common tambour stitch (either with or without beads), although it is possible to work other stitches such as satin stitch. The design is worked from the reverse of the fabric.
In India embroiderers use a form of tambour called ari which is similar but is worked from the front of the fabric and when beading the beads are loaded onto the ari hook, rather than strung onto the thread.
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Satin stitch navigate_next
Tambour Stitches -
Designed by Mrs Margaret M. Foster in the 19th century, Wessex stitchery is a counted thread technique that uses a set of simple stitches. These stitches are used more freely than in other counted thread techniques to form a range of stitch patterns. Samplers form a large body of surviving Wessex stitchery which, as well as incorporating stitched patterns, includes lettering surrounded by borders and motifs.
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
Wessex Stitchery Stitches -
Whitework is a traditional hand embroidery technique that features white thread on a white background. Often used on bridal and christening gowns, Whitework has a timeless elegance and requires a range of skills.
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Back-stitched chain stitch navigate_next
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Barred buttonhole wheel navigate_next
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Braid stitch filling navigate_next
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Bullion picot navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars (cutwork) navigate_next
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Buttonhole corner (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Buttonhole couronne navigate_next
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Buttonhole edging navigate_next
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Buttonhole edging (variation) navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Chessboard filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Cobbler filling stitch navigate_next
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Coil filling stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal chevron stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal cross filling navigate_next
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Diagonal drawn filling navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diamond Eyelet (single) navigate_next
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Dot stitch navigate_next
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Double faggot filling stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Double twist stitch navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation with buttonhole edges navigate_next
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Eyelet stitch navigate_next
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Festoon filling stitch navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Four-sided stitch navigate_next
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Framed cross filling navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Greek cross filling stitch navigate_next
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Hem stitch (Drawn Thread) navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Hollie stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb darning navigate_next
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Honeycomb filling navigate_next
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Knotted border navigate_next
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
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Ladder hem stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Large eyelet navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
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Loop picot navigate_next
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Mountmellick stitch navigate_next
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Open basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Overcast edging navigate_next
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Overcast hem stitch navigate_next
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Overcast stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (laid work padding) navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (split stitch padding) navigate_next
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Picot navigate_next
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Ring picot navigate_next
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Ringed back stitch filling navigate_next
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Single faggot stitch navigate_next
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Slanted satin stitch navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Square eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Tapered trailing navigate_next
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Three-sided stitch navigate_next
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Trailing navigate_next
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Turned satin stitch navigate_next
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Wave stitch filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Woven wheel corner navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
Whitework Stitches