Stitch Structures
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The term ‘applied’ relates to threads or objects that are held in place using another thread, either by couching over the object or stitching through it. For example: beads, sequins, spangles, cord, padding and delicate threads such as metal threads can be couched or secured onto the fabric with small or invisible stitching.
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Stab stitch navigate_next
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Chipping navigate_next
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Spangles held on with purls navigate_next
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Gold twist application navigate_next
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Felt padding navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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Carpet felt padding navigate_next
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Couching in a circle (goldwork) navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Turning metal thread couching navigate_next
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Pearl purl application navigate_next
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Bricking navigate_next
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Hard string padding (goldwork) navigate_next
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Basketweave (goldwork) navigate_next
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Underside couching navigate_next
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S-ing (goldwork) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 3) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 2) navigate_next
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Diaper couching (goldwork) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
Applied Stitches -
A bar is a thread structures which is normally worked across a void as part of cutwork or needlepoint lace. They can be made from the ground fabric (where the surrounding fabric is cut away and the remainder is stitched over) or from thread(s) stitched across the void which are then embellished.
There are various terms for bars, depending on whether they are decorated:
• Brides picotées, brides à picot, dotted bars, pearl bars and pearl ties are embellished with picots
• Brides ornées are embellished but not necessarily with picots
• Brides claires are unembellished (buttonhole) bars
N.B. the alternative name of ‘pearl’ is more commonly used to refer to a picot, but can be used for the bar itself.-
Buttonhole bars (cutwork) navigate_next
Bar Stitches -
Buttonhole stitches are used to decorate and neaten the edges of holes in the fabric such as those left in cutwork.
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Double buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Single point de Venise navigate_next
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Buttonhole edging (variation) navigate_next
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Greek cross filling stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole edging navigate_next
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Single feather stitch navigate_next
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Long and short blanket stitch navigate_next
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Spaced buttonhole filling navigate_next
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Blanket stitch navigate_next
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Closed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Crossed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Knotted buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Loop picot navigate_next
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Buttonhole wheels navigate_next
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Ring picot navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars (cutwork) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Buttonhole couronne navigate_next
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Cretan open filling stitch navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 2) navigate_next
Buttonhole Stitches -
Chained stitches are looped stitches. When working a chained stitch, the thread must form a loop on the surface by taking the needle in and out of the fabric at the same point. The next stitch begins inside the previous loop, making a continuous chain-like structure.
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Back-stitched chain stitch navigate_next
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Long-tailed daisy stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Knotted chain stitch navigate_next
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Reverse chain stitch navigate_next
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Double chain stitch navigate_next
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Sinhalese chain stitch navigate_next
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Knotted cable chain stitch navigate_next
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Mountmellick stitch navigate_next
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Heavy chain stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Chequered chain stitch navigate_next
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Whipped chain stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Threaded chain stitch navigate_next
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Hollie stitch navigate_next
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Twisted chain stitch navigate_next
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Feathered chain stitch navigate_next
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Wave stitch navigate_next
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Spine chain stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Open chain stitch navigate_next
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Cable chain stitch navigate_next
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Closed feather stitch navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 3) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
Chained Stitches -
A circular structure is one where multiple stitches combine to form a ring or circle. They include eyelets and wheels.
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Jessica Stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel corner navigate_next
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Couching in a circle (goldwork) navigate_next
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Large eyelet navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Buttonhole wheels navigate_next
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Barred buttonhole wheel navigate_next
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Buttonhole couronne navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 3) navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 2) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
Circular Stitches -
Composite stitches are those which are made up of two or more different stitches. They can also be referred to as ‘compound stitches’.
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone band navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Back-stitched chain stitch navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Shell stitch navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Oblong double-tied cross stitch navigate_next
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Threaded back stitch navigate_next
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John stitch navigate_next
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Whipped chain stitch navigate_next
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Laced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Double linked cross stitch navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Threaded chain stitch navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Threaded herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Raised chevron stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
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Barred square stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
Composite Stitches -
Condensed stitches are those with a repeating pattern block where the end of one block overlaps with the start of the next, resulting in a slightly compressed pattern. They are normally canvaswork stitches.
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Corded stitches are needlelace stitches which are worked over a laid thread. The laid thread is part of the structure but also forms a distinctive part of the stitch.
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Couched stitches are used to hold a laid thread in place using either the same thread or a contrasting one. These stitches are normally small and worked at regular intervals to secure the laid thread in place. They are always worked over the laid thread, they never pierce it.
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Pearl purl application navigate_next
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Hard string padding (goldwork) navigate_next
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Couching in a circle (goldwork) navigate_next
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Bricking navigate_next
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Soft string padding navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Diaper couching (goldwork) navigate_next
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Tapered trailing navigate_next
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Romanian couching navigate_next
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Turning metal thread couching navigate_next
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Basketweave (goldwork) navigate_next
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Web stitch navigate_next
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Trailing navigate_next
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Elizabethan twist application navigate_next
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Couched herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Battlement couching navigate_next
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Rococo stitch navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Tied pavilion stitch navigate_next
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Thorn stitch navigate_next
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Oblong double-tied cross stitch navigate_next
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Gold twist application navigate_next
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Plate application navigate_next
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Underside couching navigate_next
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Fly stitch filling navigate_next
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Cloud filling stitch navigate_next
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Pineapple half drop stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
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Tied Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
Couched Stitches -
A stitch with a cretan structure has similarities with a basic cretan stitch: alternate diagonal stitches cross each other and on the reverse of the fabric straight stitches are worked at a right angle to the direction of travel.
Cretan structure has similarities with herringbone structure: the difference is that the straight stitches on the reverse for herringbone are worked in the opposite direction to the direction of travel, rather than at a right angle.
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A crossed stitch is created by two overlapping flat stitches, to form an X shape.
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Oblong double-tied cross stitch navigate_next
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Double linked cross stitch navigate_next
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Plait stitch navigate_next
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Long-armed cross stitch navigate_next
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Laced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Perspective stitch navigate_next
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Square boss stitch navigate_next
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Dutch stitch navigate_next
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Tied Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Raised fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Greek stitch navigate_next
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Oblong cross stitch navigate_next
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Reversed cross stitch navigate_next
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Spaced cross stitch filling navigate_next
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French stitch navigate_next
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Double straight cross stitch navigate_next
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Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Montenegrin stitch navigate_next
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Turkey rug knot navigate_next
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Barred square stitch navigate_next
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Flying cross stitch navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Burden stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
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Rice stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Stepped fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Threaded herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Upright cross stitch navigate_next
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Double cross stitch navigate_next
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Van Dyke stitch navigate_next
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Double herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Cross stitch navigate_next
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Double back stitch navigate_next
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Crossed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Maltese cross stitch navigate_next
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Ermine stitch navigate_next
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Perspective stitch variation navigate_next
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Thorn stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Broad cross stitch navigate_next
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Norwich stitch navigate_next
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Alternating cross stitch navigate_next
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Crossed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal cross filling navigate_next
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Pineapple half drop stitch navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Tied herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided cross stitch navigate_next
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Marking cross stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Plaited Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Four-legged knot stitch navigate_next
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Fern stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Flat stitch navigate_next
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Couched herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (closed) navigate_next
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Web stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone band navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Open fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone ladder filling stitch navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
Crossed Stitches -
Detached stitches are those which are minimally attached to the fabric.
Some authors use the term to describe stitches which are detached from each other - these are included in the ‘Isolated’ stitch structure.
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Single Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Chevron stem stitch navigate_next
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Double corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Single point de Venise navigate_next
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Cretan open filling stitch navigate_next
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Puncetto Valsesiano navigate_next
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Single corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Double Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Ring picot navigate_next
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Buttonhole couronne navigate_next
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Hollie stitch navigate_next
Detached Stitches -
Drawn stitches are worked on evenweave fabric which has had the warp and/or weft threads removed (drawn out). This creates an open area in the fabric which can then be worked further. Drawn thread stitches are traditionally used in Whitework.
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Double twist stitch navigate_next
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Knotted border navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Woven wheel corner navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation with buttonhole edges navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation navigate_next
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Buttonhole corner (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Ladder hem stitch navigate_next
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Hem stitch (Drawn Thread) navigate_next
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Overcast hem stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
Drawn Stitches -
Flat stitches are those with minimal texture which lay flat to the surface. They are made without knotting, looping, overlapping, crossing or otherwise interweaving the thread.
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Compressed lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Holbein stitch navigate_next
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Closed diagonal darning (pattern) navigate_next
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Victorian step stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Open lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Scattered triangle (pattern) navigate_next
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John stitch navigate_next
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone darning (pattern) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘I’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Jacquard stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal wave (pattern) navigate_next
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Floral lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Scottish squares navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Y’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Octagonal square (pattern) navigate_next
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Star eyelet stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal weave (pattern) navigate_next
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Grecian curls (pattern) navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Milanese stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Hexagonal lozenge (pattern) navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Oatmeal stitch navigate_next
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Octagon star (pattern) navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Harlequin (pattern) navigate_next
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Leaves (pattern) navigate_next
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Condensed mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal stitch navigate_next
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Fan (pattern) navigate_next
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Small diamond (pattern) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Z’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Reversed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch trellis navigate_next
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Chevron stitch navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pattern) navigate_next
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Open zigzag (pattern) navigate_next
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Diagonal tile (pattern) navigate_next
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Fern stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian stitch navigate_next
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Basketweave tent stitch navigate_next
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Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Tulip (pattern) navigate_next
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Laid work navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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T-blocks (pattern) navigate_next
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Continental tent stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian grounding stitch navigate_next
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Staggered cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb (pattern) navigate_next
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Moorish stitch navigate_next
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Diamond tile (pattern) navigate_next
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Byzantine stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Bricked wave (pattern) navigate_next
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Diamond trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Open honeycomb (pattern) navigate_next
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Rounded eyelet (pattern) navigate_next
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Overcast hem stitch navigate_next
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Cushion stitch navigate_next
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Oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Darning stitch navigate_next
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Straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
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Whip stitch navigate_next
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Half cross tent stitch navigate_next
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Straight stitch navigate_next
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Point russe navigate_next
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Dot stitch navigate_next
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Chessboard filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
Flat Stitches -
Framed stitches are those where each pattern repeat is outlined in another stitch (normally tent stitch) to form a frame. They are routinely canvaswork stitches.
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Scottish squares navigate_next
Framed Stitches -
Herringbone stitches are those which use the structure of a basic herringbone stitch: the thread crosses itself on one side of the fabric and on the other straight stitches are worked in the opposite direction of travel.
This means if the stitching is worked from right to left, each straight stitch is worked from left to right (so going back on itself) and then the crossing stitches allow forward travel. The entry for double back stitch which is worked on a sheer fabric clearly shows the structure of the stitch.
Herringbone structure has similarities with cretan structure: the difference is that the straight stitches on the reverse for cretan are worked at right angles to the direction of travel.
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Double herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Chevron stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Double back stitch navigate_next
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Couched herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone band navigate_next
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Laced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone ladder filling stitch navigate_next
Herringbone Stitches -
Isolated stitches are those which are routinely worked as an individual stitch, i.e. not as part of a line or shape or pattern.
When worked as a scattered group they are sometimes known as a powdered filling.
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Norwich stitch navigate_next
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Woven picot navigate_next
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Large eyelet navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Square boss stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole wheels navigate_next
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Long-tailed daisy stitch navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Jessica Stitch navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Ermine stitch navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Fern stitch navigate_next
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Colonial knot navigate_next
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Reversed fly stitch navigate_next
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Spangles held on with purls navigate_next
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Diamond Eyelet (single) navigate_next
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Sorbello stitch navigate_next
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Maltese cross stitch navigate_next
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Star eyelet stitch navigate_next
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Point a la Minute navigate_next
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Dot stitch navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Point russe navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
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Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Square eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
Isolated Stitches -
Knotted stitches are formed by creating a loop and then passing the thread through the loop and pulling it tight to form a knot.
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
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Knotted buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Four-legged knot stitch navigate_next
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Colonial knot navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Puncetto Valsesiano navigate_next
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Diamond stitch navigate_next
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Picot navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Coral stitch navigate_next
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Chinese knot navigate_next
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Double knot stitch navigate_next
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Loop picot navigate_next
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Knotted chain stitch navigate_next
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Ring picot navigate_next
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Knotted cable chain stitch navigate_next
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Pearl Stitch navigate_next
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Tied herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Hollie stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
Knotted Stitches -
A line of ‘foundation’ stitches with a second thread intricately laced through the foundation stitches. The second thread doesn’t pierce the ground fabric. A laced stitch may have a similar third laced thread.
These stitches may also be referred to as ‘threaded’ stitches.
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Cloud filling stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
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Laced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone band navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Pekinese stitch navigate_next
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Raised chevron stitch navigate_next
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Threaded back stitch navigate_next
Laced Stitches -
Laid stitches are long, often parallel, stitches which are frequently used to fill a shape. Laid stitches use less thread by alternating direction rather than looping around the back of the fabric. From the back laid stitches show a tiny stitch on the back of the fabric. They are sometimes couched down to secure them.
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Underside couching navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
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Diaper couching (goldwork) navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Turning metal thread couching navigate_next
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Laid work navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Battlement couching navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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Couching in a circle (goldwork) navigate_next
Laid Stitches -
A looped stitch is one where the thread loops back upon itself and is held down by that thread or a different thread.
Looped stitches are distinct from knotted stitches: for the latter the thread passes through the loop and is pulled tight.
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Pekinese stitch navigate_next
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Portuguese knotted stem stitch navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (open) navigate_next
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Reversed fly stitch navigate_next
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Single corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Cretan stitch (closed) navigate_next
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Plaited braid stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Single feather stitch navigate_next
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Double feather stitch navigate_next
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Feather stitch navigate_next
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Loop picot navigate_next
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Ring picot navigate_next
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Buttonhole edging navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Sorbello stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole wheels navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars (cutwork) navigate_next
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Turkey rug stitch navigate_next
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Pearl Stitch navigate_next
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Double Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Rope stitch (variation) navigate_next
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Closed feather stitch navigate_next
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Long and short blanket stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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Fly stitch filling navigate_next
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Spaced buttonhole filling navigate_next
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Raised leaf stitch navigate_next
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Blanket stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Pearl stitch (variation) navigate_next
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Buttonhole corner (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Double corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Closed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Braid stitch navigate_next
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Single Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Rosette chain stitch navigate_next
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Crossed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Reverse chain stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Double chain stitch navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Closed fly stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Turkey rug knot navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
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Heavy chain stitch navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Knotted buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole couronne navigate_next
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Feathered chain stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Cable chain stitch navigate_next
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S-ing (goldwork) navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Wave stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
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Cretan open filling stitch navigate_next
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Hollie stitch navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 2) navigate_next
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Puncetto Valsesiano navigate_next
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Herringbone ladder filling stitch navigate_next
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Barred buttonhole wheel navigate_next
Looped Stitches -
The concept of overcast stitches originated with a repetitive motion of wrapping the edge of a piece of fabric with stitches. They have evolved to include stitches worked on flat fabric, but the principles remain the same: a line is formed of stitches which are normally short, parallel, relatively close together and stitched in the same direction without looping. The stitches can be worked over a fabric edge, a line of padding, or just a design line.
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Overcast edging navigate_next
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Large eyelet navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
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Trailing navigate_next
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Whip stitch navigate_next
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Square eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Tapered trailing navigate_next
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Diamond Eyelet (single) navigate_next
Overcast Stitches -
Parallel stitches are parallel, straight stitches worked closely together in the same direction. They are used to fill a shape with a smooth, solid surface. Stitches can be worked diagonally or straight across the shape.
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Slanted satin stitch navigate_next
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Rope stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (split stitch padding) navigate_next
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Block shading navigate_next
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Staggered cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Rope stitch (variation) navigate_next
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Chequer stitch navigate_next
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Wild goose chase stitch navigate_next
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Florentine stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (laid work padding) navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Oatmeal stitch navigate_next
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Chessboard filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Byzantine stitch navigate_next
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Oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Open fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Milanese stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Raised fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Closed fly stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian stitch navigate_next
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian grounding stitch navigate_next
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Cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Moorish stitch navigate_next
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Half cross tent stitch navigate_next
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Parisian stitch navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Raised spot stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Cushion stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Diaper couching (goldwork) navigate_next
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Double darning navigate_next
Parallel Stitches -
A combination or configuration of stitches repeated at regular intervals to build up a pattern. Most commonly used in Canvaswork, Blackwork, Smocking, Pulled Whitework, Diaper patterns, Wessex embroidery and Trellis techniques.
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Waffle (pattern) navigate_next
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Zigzag (pattern) navigate_next
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Diagonal drawn filling navigate_next
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Block trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Chequer stitch navigate_next
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Chevron (pattern) navigate_next
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Wild goose chase stitch navigate_next
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Algerian eye stitch variation navigate_next
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Framed cross filling navigate_next
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Knotted border navigate_next
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Rococo stitch navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Crossed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Z’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Double cross stitch navigate_next
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Cobbler filling stitch navigate_next
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Milanese stitch navigate_next
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Broad cross stitch navigate_next
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Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Van Dyke stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Small diamond (pattern) navigate_next
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Hungarian grounding stitch navigate_next
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Upright cross stitch navigate_next
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Diamond trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Coil filling stitch navigate_next
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Fan (pattern) navigate_next
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Hungarian stitch navigate_next
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Parisian stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal trellis (pattern) navigate_next
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Moorish stitch navigate_next
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Byzantine stitch navigate_next
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T-blocks (pattern) navigate_next
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Alternating cross stitch navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘I’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Perspective stitch navigate_next
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb filling navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
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Compressed lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Perspective stitch variation navigate_next
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Barred square stitch navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Hexagonal lozenge (pattern) navigate_next
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Lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Honeycomb (pattern) navigate_next
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Staggered cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Open honeycomb (pattern) navigate_next
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Harlequin (pattern) navigate_next
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Basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Rounded eyelet (pattern) navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Battlement couching navigate_next
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Diagonal tile (pattern) navigate_next
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Octagonal square (pattern) navigate_next
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Diaper couching (goldwork) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Y’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Oatmeal stitch navigate_next
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Octagon star (pattern) navigate_next
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Tulip (pattern) navigate_next
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Scattered triangle (pattern) navigate_next
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Cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Chessboard filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
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John stitch navigate_next
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Cushion stitch navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
Pattern Stitches -
Picots are nodules made of thread which protrude from the edge of the fabric (normally as part of whitework or needlepoint lace) or a bar (in cutwork) or from the surface of the fabric (normally as part of surface embroidery).
Where picots have been used to embellish bars in needlepoint lace, the bars are sometimes referred to as ‘dotted bars’. The alternative name of ‘pearl’ can also be used to refer to a bar, as well as to the picot itself.
N.B. there are two surface embroidery stitches with picot in their names: woven picot and detached woven picot.
Image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/215050.
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Picot navigate_next
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Bullion picot navigate_next
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Ring picot navigate_next
Picot Stitches -
Piled stitches are those which are formed by loops of thread which can be left as loops or cut to form a texture like the surface of a carpet.
They are worked by leaving loops of thread on the surface which are then anchored in place with small stitches. The loops can be kept of an even length by wrapping them around a gauge (a narrow implement laid along the stitch’s path). Gauges (also known as a mesh) were popular in the 19th century and could be made from metal, wood or bone and varied in size from a sixteenth of an inch to 2 or even 3 inches. Some had a groove which served as a guide for the scissors if the loops were to be cut, and some of the metal versions had a sharp edge which was used to cut the thread as it was removed. Knitting or crochet needles, dowel or narrow rulers can all be used as improvised gauges. The pile was often trimmed to follow the contours of a design, especially within Berlin wool work.
Piled stitches are often worked on canvas, but can also be worked as a surface stitch. They are known collectively as velvet or plush stitches, or as Turkey work (named for their origins in Turkish carpet-making).
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Turkey rug stitch navigate_next
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Turkey rug knot navigate_next
Piled Stitches -
A stitch where the thread is intricately looped, often more than once in different directions, to form an evenly-textured line. The thread is predominantly on the surface of the fabric. Plaited stitches can can also be referred to as braid stitches.
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Pulled thread stitches are tightly worked stitches which pull open the warp and/or weft of the fabric, often in repeated formation in order to form a pattern. Pulled thread stitches are traditionally used in Whitework.
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Coil filling stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb filling navigate_next
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diagonal chevron stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb darning navigate_next
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Hem stitch (Drawn Thread) navigate_next
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Wave stitch filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diamond Eyelet (single) navigate_next
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Three-sided stitch navigate_next
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Open basket filling stitch navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Double faggot filling stitch navigate_next
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Greek cross filling stitch navigate_next
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Cobbler filling stitch navigate_next
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Festoon filling stitch navigate_next
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Braid stitch filling navigate_next
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Four-sided stitch navigate_next
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Ringed back stitch filling navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
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Diagonal drawn filling navigate_next
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Framed cross filling navigate_next
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Single faggot stitch navigate_next
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Square eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diagonal cross filling navigate_next
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Ladder hem stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
Pulled Stitches -
A stitch which is substantially raised from the surface of the fabric.
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Felt padding navigate_next
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Overcast stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole couronne navigate_next
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Plate application navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 2) navigate_next
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S-ing (goldwork) navigate_next
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Bullion picot navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 1) navigate_next
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Cutwork purls over soft string navigate_next
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Carpet felt padding navigate_next
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Shisha stitch (variation 3) navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Double knot stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Raised leaf stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Tapered trailing navigate_next
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Flat cutwork (goldwork) navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Soft string padding navigate_next
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Raised spot stitch navigate_next
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Raised fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Raised chevron stitch navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Hollie stitch navigate_next
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Shell stitch navigate_next
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Woven picot navigate_next
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Plaited braid stitch navigate_next
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Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Elizabethan whipped cording stitch navigate_next
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Trailing navigate_next
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Point a la Minute navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Chevron stem stitch navigate_next
Raised Stitches -
Raised band stitches are those which are worked on a foundation of stitches which form a wide band and provide the raised element. Typically, the foundation consists of parallel stitches like the rungs of a ladder, upon which the other stitches are worked.
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Reversible stitches are those which are either identical on both sides of the fabric, or form different versions on the front and back. They are ideal to embellish items where both sides of the fabric may be seen.
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Turned satin stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided cross stitch navigate_next
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Four-sided stitch navigate_next
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Three-sided stitch navigate_next
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Double back stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Marking cross stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Montenegrin stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
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Single faggot stitch navigate_next
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Slanted satin stitch navigate_next
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Double darning navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Holbein stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
Reversible Stitches -
Running stitches are the simplest form of flat stitch in which the thread is worked in and out of the fabric continuously.
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A solid-line stitch is used to form a solid, unbroken line.
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Quaker stitch navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Cable stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Rope stitch navigate_next
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Twisted chain stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Trailing navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Braid stitch navigate_next
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Gold twist application navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Tapered trailing navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Closed fly stitch navigate_next
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Turning metal thread couching navigate_next
Solid-line Stitches -
Tied stitches are those where a thread is tied down to the base fabric or around a group of other threads so that they are bunched and pulled out of alignment.
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Closed fly stitch navigate_next
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Shell stitch navigate_next
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Tied herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Knotted border navigate_next
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Couched herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Rococo stitch navigate_next
Tied Stitches -
Trellis stitches are constructed by filling the desired area with a grid of evently-spaced horizontal and vertical stitches. Where the trellis stitches cross, small couching stitches secure them in place. The trellis can also be diagonal. Frequently found in Jacobean Crewelwork.
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Whipped stitches are those which are wrapped around previously worked foundation stitches; the whipping stitches always wrap in the same direction. The foundation stitches can be a line, parallel or star shape. The whipping stitches do not pierce the fabric.
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Whipped chain stitch navigate_next
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Point a la Minute navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Bullion picot navigate_next
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Elizabethan whipped cording stitch navigate_next
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Portuguese knotted stem stitch navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced cross bar navigate_next
Whipped Stitches -
Woven stitches are those which are worked around foundation stitches; the woven stitches are worked in alternate directions or with an over and under motion. The foundation stitches can be a line or star shape. The weaving stitches do not pierce the fabric.
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Herringbone ladder filling stitch navigate_next
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Cretan open filling stitch navigate_next
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Woven picot navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Woven wheel corner navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Shell stitch navigate_next
Woven Stitches