Stitch Structures
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The term ‘applied’ relates to threads or objects that are held in place using another thread, either by couching over the object or stitching through it. For example: beads, sequins, spangles, cord, padding and delicate threads such as metal threads can be couched or secured onto the fabric with small or invisible stitching.
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Chipping navigate_next
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Stab stitch navigate_next
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Spangles held on with purls navigate_next
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Felt padding navigate_next
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Bricking navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Pearl purl application navigate_next
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Basketweave (goldwork) navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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S-ing (goldwork) navigate_next
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Underside couching navigate_next
Applied Stitches -
Chained stitches are looped stitches. When working a chained stitch, the thread must form a loop on the surface by taking the needle in and out of the fabric at the same point. The next stitch begins inside the previous loop, making a continuous chain-like structure.
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Open chain stitch navigate_next
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Mountmellick stitch navigate_next
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Whipped chain stitch navigate_next
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Chequered chain stitch navigate_next
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Feathered chain stitch navigate_next
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Back-stitched chain stitch navigate_next
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Cable chain stitch navigate_next
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Reverse chain stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Double chain stitch navigate_next
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Heavy chain stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Closed feather stitch navigate_next
Chained Stitches -
Composite stitches are those which are made up of two or more different stitches. They can also be referred to as ‘compound stitches’.
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Back-stitched chain stitch navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Shell stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Threaded herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Whipped chain stitch navigate_next
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Oblong double-tied cross stitch navigate_next
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John stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Laced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Threaded back stitch navigate_next
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Double linked cross stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Barred square stitch navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
Composite Stitches -
Condensed stitches are those with a repeating pattern block where the end of one block overlaps with the start of the next, resulting in a slightly compressed pattern. They are normally canvaswork stitches.
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
Condensed Stitches -
Corded stitches are needlelace stitches which are worked over a laid thread. The laid thread is part of the structure but also forms a distinctive part of the stitch.
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Couched stitches are used to hold a laid thread in place using either the same thread or a contrasting one. These stitches are normally small and worked at regular intervals to secure the laid thread in place. They are always worked over the laid thread, they never pierce it.
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Basketweave (goldwork) navigate_next
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Battlement couching navigate_next
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Web stitch navigate_next
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Soft string padding navigate_next
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Pearl purl application navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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Bricking navigate_next
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Romanian couching navigate_next
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Trailing navigate_next
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Elizabethan twist application navigate_next
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Rococo stitch navigate_next
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Oblong double-tied cross stitch navigate_next
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Thorn stitch navigate_next
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Plate application navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Underside couching navigate_next
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Tied pavilion stitch navigate_next
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Pineapple half drop stitch navigate_next
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Tied Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
Couched Stitches -
A crossed stitch is created by two overlapping flat stitches, to form an X shape.
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Greek stitch navigate_next
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Van Dyke stitch navigate_next
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Dutch stitch navigate_next
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Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Double herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Interlaced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Long-armed cross stitch navigate_next
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Crossed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Alternating cross stitch navigate_next
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Double straight cross stitch navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Threaded herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Barred square stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
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Broad cross stitch navigate_next
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Flying cross stitch navigate_next
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Double linked cross stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Ermine stitch navigate_next
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Montenegrin stitch navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Pineapple half drop stitch navigate_next
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Double cross stitch navigate_next
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Perspective stitch variation navigate_next
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Tied Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal cross filling navigate_next
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Thorn stitch navigate_next
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Rice stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Crossed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Stepped fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Raised fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Burden stitch navigate_next
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Plait stitch navigate_next
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Maltese cross stitch navigate_next
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Laced herringbone stitch navigate_next
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French stitch navigate_next
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Upright cross stitch navigate_next
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Oblong double-tied cross stitch navigate_next
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Norwich stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Double back stitch navigate_next
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Cross stitch navigate_next
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Flat stitch navigate_next
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Web stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Fern stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Herringbone ladder filling stitch navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
Crossed Stitches -
Detached stitches are those which are minimally attached to the fabric.
The term is also used to describe stitches which are detached from each other - these are included in the ‘Isolated’ stitch structure.
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Double Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Single Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Single corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Double corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
Detached Stitches -
Drawn stitches are worked on evenweave fabric which has had the warp and/or weft threads removed (drawn out). This creates an open area in the fabric which can then be worked further. Drawn thread stitches are traditionally used in Whitework.
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Double twist stitch navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Woven wheel corner navigate_next
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Knotted border navigate_next
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Hem stitch (Drawn Thread) navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
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Drawn thread preparation navigate_next
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Buttonhole corner (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Overcast hem stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
Drawn Stitches -
Flat stitches are those with minimal texture which lay flat to the surface. They are made without knotting, looping, overlapping, crossing or otherwise interweaving the thread.
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Finishing stitch navigate_next
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Milanese stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Moorish stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
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Star eyelet stitch navigate_next
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Hexagonal lozenge (pattern) navigate_next
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Byzantine stitch navigate_next
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Small diamond (pattern) navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Z’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Chevron stitch navigate_next
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Holding stitch navigate_next
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Basketweave tent stitch navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Compressed lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Hungarian stitch navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Continental tent stitch navigate_next
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Cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Staggered cashmere stitch navigate_next
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T-blocks (pattern) navigate_next
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Victorian step stitch navigate_next
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Fan (pattern) navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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John stitch navigate_next
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Laid work navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Y’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Fern stitch navigate_next
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Holbein stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Reversed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian grounding stitch navigate_next
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Cushion stitch navigate_next
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Oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Straight stitch navigate_next
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Overcast hem stitch navigate_next
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Straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Half cross tent stitch navigate_next
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Long and short stitch navigate_next
Flat Stitches -
Framed stitches are those where each pattern repeat is outlined in another stitch (normally tent stitch) to form a frame. They are routinely canvaswork stitches.
Framed Stitches -
Isolated stitches are those which are routinely worked as an individual stitch, i.e. not as part of a line or shape or pattern.
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Spangles held on with purls navigate_next
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Buttonhole wheels navigate_next
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Colonial knot navigate_next
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Large eyelet navigate_next
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Star eyelet stitch navigate_next
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Fern stitch navigate_next
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Diamond Eyelet (single) navigate_next
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Woven picot navigate_next
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Seeding stitch navigate_next
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Maltese cross stitch navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Ermine stitch navigate_next
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Norwich stitch navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Square eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
Isolated Stitches -
Knotted stitches are formed by creating a loop and then passing the thread through the loop and pulling it tight to form a knot.
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
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Pistil stitch navigate_next
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Colonial knot navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Coral stitch navigate_next
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Chinese knot navigate_next
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French knot navigate_next
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Diamond stitch navigate_next
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Portuguese knotted stem stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
Knotted Stitches -
A line of ‘foundation’ stitches with a second thread intricately laced through the foundation stitches. The second thread doesn’t pierce the ground fabric. A laced stitch may have a similar third laced thread.
These stitches may also be referred to as ‘threaded’ stitches.
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Laid stitches are long, often parallel, stitches which are frequently used to fill a shape. Laid stitches use less thread by alternating direction rather than looping around the back of the fabric. From the back laid stitches show a tiny stitch on the back of the fabric. They are sometimes couched down to secure them.
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A looped stitch is one where the thread loops back upon itself and is held down by that thread or a different thread.
Looped stitches are distinct from knotted stitches: for the latter the thread passes through the loop and is pulled tight.
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Portuguese knotted stem stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Ceylon stitch navigate_next
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Detached wheatear stitch navigate_next
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Double Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Single feather stitch navigate_next
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Pekinese stitch navigate_next
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Cretan stitch navigate_next
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Double feather stitch navigate_next
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Single Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Pearl stitch (variation) navigate_next
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Fly stitch navigate_next
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Blanket stitch navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Long and short blanket stitch navigate_next
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Raised leaf stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole corner (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Single corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Turkey rug stitch navigate_next
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Closed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Double corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Detached chain stitch navigate_next
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Closed feather stitch navigate_next
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole wheels navigate_next
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Feather stitch navigate_next
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Crossed buttonhole stitch navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
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Tete-de-boeuf stitch navigate_next
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Feathered chain stitch navigate_next
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
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Double chain stitch navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Cable chain stitch navigate_next
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S-ing (goldwork) navigate_next
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Chain stitch (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Heavy chain stitch navigate_next
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Chain stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Raised chain band stitch navigate_next
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Reverse chain stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone ladder filling stitch navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
Looped Stitches -
The concept of overcast stitches originated with a repetitive motion of wrapping the edge of a piece of fabric with stitches. They have evolved to include stitches worked on flat fabric, but the principles remain the same: a line is formed of stitches which are normally short, parallel, relatively close together and stitched in the same direction without looping. The stitches can be worked over a fabric edge, a line of padding, or just a design line.
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Parallel stitches are parallel, straight stitches worked closely together in the same direction. They are used to fill a shape with a smooth, solid surface. Stitches can be worked diagonally or straight across the shape.
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Block shading navigate_next
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Slanted satin stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (split stitch padding) navigate_next
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Chequer stitch navigate_next
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Wild goose chase stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Florentine stitch navigate_next
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Padded satin stitch (laid work padding) navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Staggered cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian stitch navigate_next
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Tent stitch navigate_next
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Fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian grounding stitch navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Byzantine stitch navigate_next
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Half cross tent stitch navigate_next
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Cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Milanese stitch navigate_next
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Raised spot stitch navigate_next
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Moorish stitch navigate_next
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Cushion stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching straight Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Raised fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Parisian stitch navigate_next
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Encroaching oblique Gobelin stitch navigate_next
Parallel Stitches -
A combination or configuration of stitches repeated at regular intervals to build up a pattern. Most commonly used in Canvaswork, Blackwork, Smocking, Pulled Whitework, Diaper patterns, Wessex embroidery and Trellis techniques.
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Algerian eye stitch variation navigate_next
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Chevron (pattern) navigate_next
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Wild goose chase stitch navigate_next
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Algerian eye stitch navigate_next
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Chequer stitch navigate_next
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Fan (pattern) navigate_next
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Leaf stitch (canvaswork) navigate_next
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Hungarian grounding stitch navigate_next
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Byzantine stitch navigate_next
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Milanese stitch navigate_next
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Upright cross stitch navigate_next
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Two-sided Italian cross stitch navigate_next
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Moorish stitch navigate_next
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Double cross stitch navigate_next
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Cobbler filling stitch navigate_next
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Parisian stitch navigate_next
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Van Dyke stitch navigate_next
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Crossed cushion stitch navigate_next
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Coil filling stitch navigate_next
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Perspective stitch variation navigate_next
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Honeycomb filling navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Z’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Compressed lace (pattern) navigate_next
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Small diamond (pattern) navigate_next
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Rococo stitch navigate_next
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Alternating cross stitch navigate_next
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Mosaic stitch navigate_next
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Condensed cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Hungarian stitch navigate_next
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Knotted border navigate_next
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Broad cross stitch navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (pulled thread) navigate_next
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T-blocks (pattern) navigate_next
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Condensed Scotch stitch navigate_next
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Arrowhead stitch navigate_next
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Interlocking ‘Y’s (pattern) navigate_next
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Brick stitch navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Hexagonal lozenge (pattern) navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Barred square stitch navigate_next
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Staggered cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Battlement couching navigate_next
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Cushion stitch navigate_next
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John stitch navigate_next
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Cashmere stitch navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
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Cross bar filling trellis navigate_next
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Trellis navigate_next
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Cross bar with link trellis navigate_next
Pattern Stitches -
Piled stitches are those which are formed by loops of thread which are cut to form a texture like the surface of a carpet.>
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Turkey rug stitch navigate_next
Piled Stitches -
A stitch where the thread is intricately looped, often more than once in different directions, to form an evenly-textured line. The thread is predominantly on the surface of the fabric. Plaited stitches can can also be referred to as braid stitches.
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Knotted pearl stitch navigate_next
Plaited Stitches -
Pulled thread stitches are tightly worked stitches which pull open the warp and/or weft of the fabric, often in repeated formation in order to form a pattern. Pulled thread stitches are traditionally used in Whitework.
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Round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Four-sided stitch navigate_next
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Small round eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Festoon filling stitch navigate_next
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Cobbler filling stitch navigate_next
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Coil filling stitch navigate_next
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Honeycomb darning navigate_next
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Honeycomb filling navigate_next
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Diamond Eyelet (single) navigate_next
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Wave stitch filling (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diamond eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Hem stitch (Drawn Thread) navigate_next
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Square eyelet (pulled thread) navigate_next
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Diagonal cross filling navigate_next
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Single faggot stitch navigate_next
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Small eyelet navigate_next
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Diagonal hem stitch navigate_next
Pulled Stitches -
A stitch which is substantially raised from the surface of the fabric.
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Plate application navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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S-ing (goldwork) navigate_next
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Felt padding navigate_next
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Cutwork purls over soft string navigate_next
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Detached woven picot navigate_next
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Raised spot stitch navigate_next
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Raised leaf stitch navigate_next
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Buttonhole scallops navigate_next
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Woven wheel navigate_next
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Detached buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Buttonhole bars navigate_next
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Raised fishbone stitch navigate_next
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Soft string padding navigate_next
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Flat cutwork (goldwork) navigate_next
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Ladder stitch (surface) navigate_next
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Half Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Loop stitch navigate_next
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Shell stitch navigate_next
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Rhodes stitch navigate_next
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Treble Brussels stitch navigate_next
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Woven picot navigate_next
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Treble corded Brussels stitch navigate_next
Raised Stitches -
Reversible stitches are those which are either identical on both sides of the fabric, or form different versions on the front and back. They are ideal to embellish items where both sides of the fabric may be seen.
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Double back stitch navigate_next
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Closed herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Slanted satin stitch navigate_next
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Herringbone stitch navigate_next
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Single faggot stitch navigate_next
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Holbein stitch navigate_next
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Satin stitch navigate_next
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Running stitch navigate_next
Reversible Stitches -
Running stitches are the simplest form of flat stitch in which the thread is worked in and out of the fabric continuously.
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A solid-line stitch is used to form a solid, unbroken line.
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Outline stitch navigate_next
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Split stitch navigate_next
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Stem stitch navigate_next
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Quaker stitch navigate_next
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Back stitch navigate_next
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Double running stitch navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Trailing navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
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Couching around a right-angle navigate_next
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Couching navigate_next
Solid-line Stitches -
Tied stitches are those where a thread is tied down to the base fabric or around a group of other threads so that they are bunched and pulled out of alignment.
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Trellis stitches are constructed by filling the desired area with a grid of evently-spaced horizontal and vertical stitches. Where the trellis stitches cross, small couching stitches secure them in place. The trellis can also be diagonal. Frequently found in Jacobean Crewelwork.
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Whipped stitches are those which are wrapped around previously worked foundation stitches; the whipping stitches always wrap in the same direction. The foundation stitches can be a line, parallel or star shape. The whipping stitches do not pierce the fabric.
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Whipped chain stitch navigate_next
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Whipped back stitch navigate_next
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Wrapped bars (drawn thread) navigate_next
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Whipped blanket stitch navigate_next
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Bullion knot navigate_next
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Raised stem band stitch navigate_next
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Whipped stem stitch navigate_next
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Whipped wheel navigate_next
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Whipped running stitch navigate_next
Whipped Stitches -
Woven stitches are those which are worked around foundation stitches; the woven stitches are worked in alternate directions or with an over and under motion. The foundation stitches can be a line or star shape. The weaving stitches do not pierce the fabric.