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Reversed faggot stitch icon
Reversed faggot stitch

  • Reverse faggot
  • Reversed faggot filling
Reversed faggot stitch main image

This pulled work stitch consists of diagonal lines of what initially appears like double running stitch or back stitch.  However, if you turn the fabric over, the wrong side will show a version of single faggot stitch.  The stitch is formed by adjoining rows of single faggot stitch, the majority of which are worked twice into the same holes to give a more raised effect.  This stitch is therefore also similar to double faggot filling stitch, although the spacing is different.

Reversed faggot stitch was evidently in use in the 18th century as it features on sleeve ruffles on a French sack back dress currently held by the Indianapolis Museum of Art.  Thérèse de Dillmont documents the stitch in her 1880 Encyclopedia of needlework.

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Method

The stitch is worked in pairs of diagonal rows: after the first pair of rows, subsequent rows overlap with half of the previous pair so the stitches are worked twice into the same holes. 
This example is worked over four threads in accordance with Mary Thomas’ version whereas single faggot stitch is normally worked over three threads; you could work this over either number of threads.

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1

Bring your needle up at the bottom left hand corner of your design area and take it down four threads up and four threads across.

2

Count four threads down and bring your needle back up and pull taut. Take it down four threads up and four threads right to complete your first pair of parallel diagonal stitches.

3

Bring your needle up at the end of the first stitch, pull taut and continue working pairs of stitches across your design area.

4

When you reach the top of your design area, start a new row by bringing your needle up four threads to the right.

5

Take your needle down four threads below and four threads left, then bring it up four threads above, sharing a hole with the end of the previous row.

6

Make another stitch over the final stitch of the previous row and bring your needle up four threads to the left (sharing a hole with the first stitch on this row).

7

Continue working pairs of stitches, the left hand stitches are all worked over the previous row.

8

When you reach the end of the row, work back up the design area, again sharing holes with the previous row.

9

Continue in this way to fill the area.

10

The reverse of reversed faggot filling.

Reversed faggot stitch

Structure of stitch

Embroidery Techniques

Related Stitches

Identifying Reversed faggot stitch

This stitch can be identified by the diagonal lines of stitching which are worked twice into the same holes and so look heavier than most pulled work stitches.

References

  • Mary Thomas’s Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches (1934) , p.91
  • Thérèse De Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework (1886) , p.460
  • 'C18 French dress with sleeve ruffles', Indianapolis Museum of Art. Available at: https://collections.discovernewfields.org/art/artwork/78198 (Accessed: 05 April 2024)
  • Eve Harlow, Anchor book of counted thread embroidery (1997) , p.46-7