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A pop is a tiny ring of thread covered in buttonhole stitches with a central hole (normally as part of needlepoint lace).

It is similar to both buttonhole couronne and buttonhole wheel, but is normally much smaller than both of those alternatives and is worked directly onto the fabric, normally a net.

Pops are often worked as a scattering of isolated stitches between other needlepoint lace motifs.

The use of pops dates from at least the 19th century when they were used in point de gaze needlepoint lace from Belgium, and Carrickmacross lace from Ireland.  Both techniques scatter isolated pops across a net ground.  The Art Institute of Chicago holds many pieces of point de gaze lace which feature pops - see the end of this entry for one example.

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Buttonhole Isolated Circular Embellishment Carrickmacross Whitework Needlepoint lace

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Method

The precise method of working pops varies on the author, the size of the net and the weight of the thread.  This example uses a hexagonal net without a fabric backing, the pop is outlined with a running stitch circle and is formed by two buttonhole stitches worked into each hexagon.  For a more delicate pop like those worked for needlepoint lace, omit the running stitch outline and work a single stitch into each hexagon.

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1
pop method stage 1 illustration
pop method stage 1 photograph
1

Leaving a tail of thread, bring your needle up in the net and work a clockwise running stitch around six hexagons to form a circle.

2
pop method stage 2 illustration
pop method stage 2 photograph
2

Fold your tail back on itself so it lies on top of the running stitches and take your needle into the central hexagon.  Bring it back up in the starting hexagon and work a buttonhole stitch, making sure you capture the tail into the stitch.

3
pop method stage 3 illustration
pop method stage 3 photograph
3

Work another buttonhole stitch next to the first, again making sure you capture the tail in the stitch.

4
pop method stage 4 illustration
pop method stage 4 photograph
4

Moving clockwise around the central hexagon, make another pair of buttonhole stitch into the next hexagon.

5
pop method stage 5 illustration
pop method stage 5 photograph
5

Continue making pairs of buttonhole stitches into each hexagon.  Trim the tail when it is secured under several stitches.

6
pop method stage 6 illustration
pop method stage 6 photograph
6

To finish, slide your needle under the first buttonhole stitch and either trail your thread to the location of the next pop, or finish it by weaving under the buttonhole stitches.

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Structure of stitch

Buttonhole Isolated Circular

Common uses

Embellishment

Embroidery Techniques

Carrickmacross Whitework Needlepoint lace

Related Stitches

Buttonhole couronne Ring picot Buttonhole wheels Small eyelet

Identifying pop

A pop can be identified by closely-worked buttonhole stitches worked in a small circle onto a net backing.  They are often found within an area of needlepoint lace, such as point de Gaze from Belgium or Limerick lace from Ireland.  They are sometimes used to embellish wedding veils when they are used to form a powdered filling.

References

  • Pat Earnshaw, Needle-made laces: materials, designs, techniques (1988) , p.134
  • Alexandra Stillwell, Cassell illustrated dictionary of lacemaking (1996) , p.169
  • Edna Sutton, Bees, birds and butterflies in lace (1991) , p.27
  • 'C19 Point de gaze border', Art Institute of Chicago. Available at: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/39283/border (Accessed: 27 January 2023)
  • Nellie Ó Cléirigh, Carrickmacross Lace: Irish Embroidered Lace (1990) , p.29

Examples of pop

Point de gaze border

This 19th century point de gaze border is from Belgium. The pops can be seen scattered on the net background.

The depth of the border is approximately 5cm.

Image courtesy of Art Institute of Chicago, accession number: 1937.1142a-b

https://www.artic.edu/artworks/26061/borders

Needlepoint lace fragment

This fragment of needlepoint lace shows multiple pops worked on a hand-made net. The central pop is approximately 2mm diameter.

Image from a private collection.