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Plain Russian stitch icon
Plain Russian stitch

  • Russian stitch
  • Point d'Alencon
  • Alencon bar
  • Herringbone stitch
Plain Russian stitch main image

This stitch is an insertion version of herringbone stitch.  Like all insertion stitches it is worked in a narrow gap between two separate pieces of fabric, often towards the hem of a garment or household item.  Its simplicity makes it a popular insertion stitch.  See the image at the end of this entry for an example of the stitch from the RSN collection.

Structurally this stitch has similarities with open Cretan stitch.

The earliest references to plain Russian stitch feature in needlepoint lace publications from the late 19th century where it is one of a large variety of insertion stitches and is often shown worked between lace edges.  See the image at the end of the entry for two variations from Mrs Beeton’s Book of needlework.

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Crossed Reversible Herringbone Insertion Whitework

This stitch is awaiting a sponsor.

Method

This stitch is worked alternately between two fabric edges; to keep the edges parallel, tack them to a temporary fabric foundation.  Each time the needle is taken through the fabric it is inserted from front to back, and the insertion points on each side are offset from the other.

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1
Plain Russian stitch method stage 1 illustration
Plain Russian stitch method stage 1 photograph
1

Bring your needle up at the top right edge, take it across the aperture and insert it into the left edge, slightly further down.  Pull your needle through, over the working thread.

2
Plain Russian stitch method stage 2 illustration
Plain Russian stitch method stage 2 photograph
2

Insert your needle into the right edge, slightly further down and pull through, over the working thread.

3
Plain Russian stitch method stage 3 illustration
Plain Russian stitch method stage 3 photograph
3

Continue working stitches in this way, alternating between the two sides of fabric.

4
Plain Russian stitch method stage 4 illustration
Plain Russian stitch method stage 4 photograph
4

A length of plain Russian stitch.

5
Plain Russian stitch method stage 5 illustration
Plain Russian stitch method stage 5 photograph
5

The reverse of plain Russian stitch.

Plain Russian stitch

Structure of stitch

Crossed Reversible Herringbone

Common uses

Insertion

Embroidery Techniques

Whitework

Related Stitches

Herringbone stitch

Identifying Plain Russian stitch

This stitch can be identified by the offset crossing threads which are worked into alternate sides of an aperture.  The working thread is taken over the previous stitch to anchor it in place.

References

  • Thérèse De Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework (1886)
  • Isabella Mary Beeton, 'Beeton’s Book of Needlework', Beeton's Book of Needlework (1870). Available at: http://www.beetonsbookofneedlework.com/ (Accessed: 01 December 2021)
  • S. F. A. Caulfeild, Blanche C. Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework (1882) , p.1
  • Pat Earnshaw, Needle-made laces: materials, designs, techniques (1988) , p.79

Examples of Plain Russian stitch

Isabel Elliott letter I, RSN Collection No. 2296

This piece is the letter I, worked as part of a stitched alphabet by Isabel Elliott in the early 2000s and held in the RSN collection. Plain Russian stitch is worked between the applied fabric lengths.

RSN collection #2296

Plain Russian variations

Mrs Beeton's 1870 Book of needlework shows two ways of embellishing plain Russian stitch: the first whips another thread around the stitch and knots it over the intersections; the second buttonholes over the stitches.