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Overcast hem stitch icon
Overcast hem stitch

This stitch is a drawn thread stitch where the edge of the open area is embellished with overcast stitches.  It can be used in conjunction with other drawn thread stitches.

Overcast hem stitch is generously sponsored by Mary Dewell

Method

Overcasting stitch does not give quite such a strong edge as hem stitch, so it is not as practical for borders on household linens.

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Overcast hem stitch method stage 1 photograph
1

Prepare for overcasting stitch by following one of the drawn thread removal techniques - see stitch entries ‘Drawn thread preparation’ or ‘Drawn thread preparation with buttonhole edges’ for further information and methods.

Overcast hem stitch method stage 2 photograph
2

Cast on in the woven patch and come up in the first gap.

Overcast hem stitch method stage 3 photograph
3

Take the needle down two threads along and two up into the linen.

Overcast hem stitch method stage 4 photograph
4

Come up in the gap directly above.

Overcast hem stitch method stage 5 photograph
5

Take the needle down two threads along and two up into the linen.

Overcast hem stitch method stage 6 photograph
6

Continue the pattern to the end of the row of drawn threads.

Overcast hem stitch method stage 7 photograph
7

A finished sample of overcast hem stitch. You need to pull fairly tightly to achieve the ladder effect.

Overcast hem stitch

Structure of stitch

Common uses

Overcasting stitch is useful for very fine work where there may not be enough space for hem stitch, or as a quicker way to make a foundation for other stitches.

Embroidery Techniques

References

  • Lizzy Lansberry, RSN Essential Stitch Guides: Whitework (2012)