About RSN Stitch Bank
ladder stitch (pulled thread)
- Laddering
A pulled thread band used in whitework, resulting in what looks like a series of very small eyelets in a line, ideal for stems and veins. It can be worked either with the grain or across it for a diagonal or curved line.
Lines of adjoining eyelets have been used in whitework for centuries, certainly from the 17th century, but it is hard to ascertain when ladder stitch was first used. Some Ayrshire work pieces (from the 19th century) appear to use a stitch which has elements of both ladder stitch and beading.
Further Reading
Dedicated to Philippa Naylor.
Method
Begin with a couple of holding stitches, then work an even backstitch pulling the thread to create holes between each stitch.
Lay a couching thread down each side of the back stitch and attach at the top with a small stitch.
Bring the needle up in the first hole and stitch over the first backstitch with good tension.
Bring the needle up in the fabric to the right of the first hole and stitch over the laid thread by taking the needle back down into the first hole.
Bring the needle up in the second hole and stitch over the backstitch above, again with good tension.
Continue securing the laid thread on the right side in the same way to the end of the area.
Repeat this pattern down the left hand side.
Plunge the couching thread neatly at the bottom of the back stitch.
ladder stitch (pulled thread)
Structure of stitch
Effectively a back stitch pulled with enough tension to open the fabric threads between each stitch. As the the back stitch is in progress the needle is taken off to the side to couch down an outline at the same time.
Common uses
Embroidery Techniques
Related Stitches
Identifying ladder stitch (pulled thread)
Ladder stitch can be distinguished from a line of individually-worked eyelets by looking at where the eyelets touch. Individual eyelets are completely encircled with a continuous line of oversewing; ladder stitch eyelets ‘share’ the oversewing with the next eyelet, i.e. the oversewing links one eyelet to the next.
The main differences between ladder stitch and beading is that the former tends to have smaller holes of a consistent size and fewer stitches (normally just two) between the holes which tends to make the outline of the eyelets less defined. Some historic pieces seem to feature rows of eyelets which are a combination of both stitches: they are less overcast around the edges than beading, but steps of the ladder have more wraps than ladder stitch.
References
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Jenny Adin-Christie, Fine whitework (2023) , p.77-79
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Examples of ladder stitch (pulled thread)
19th century whitework handkerchief
The edges of the petals are worked in ladder stitch. A similar stitch (beading) is used for the straight border. Both stitches form a row of eyelets: ladder stitch eyelets tend to be smaller and have less overcasting and so the outline is less defined. The embroidered area is less than 15cm across.
Image courtesy of Cleveland Museum of Art
Accession number: 1936.717
