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Ladder hem stitch icon
Ladder hem stitch

  • Ladder stitch
Ladder hem stitch main image

Ladder hem stitch is a variation of hem stitch. It produces a wider border than ordinary hem stitch, and it is worked on both upper and lower ends of the vertical threads. 

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Drawn Pulled Border Drawn Thread Whitework

Ladder hem stitch is generously sponsored by Prof Norma Dawson and Cynthia Batten in memory of Nan Andrew (1926–2020)

Method

If you are working on the edge of the fabric, turn the hem in just up to the edge of the drawn threads, and tack the hem in position. In the example below, a drawn thread band is worked on the ground fabric, which is taut in an embroidery frame. It shows that the starting point is two fabric threads down from the edge and that three vertical fabric threads are gathered. However, you could change the number of threads depending on the effect you require.
Decide how many fabric threads you want to gather and make sure you withdraw a multiple of that number (e.g. if you are gathering groups of three, and want 9 groups, withdraw an area which spans 27 threads).

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Ladder hem stitch method stage 1 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 1 photograph
1

Prior to starting hem stitch, follow one of the drawn thread removal techniques, and then, starting with a waste knot, work two tiny running stitches. Bring your needle up at the bottom left corner two threads below the withdrawn area and then insert it in the withdrawn area, three threads to the right.

Drawn thread preparation Drawn thread preparation with buttonhole edges
Ladder hem stitch method stage 2 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 2 photograph
2

Pass the working thread behind the cluster of three fabric threads and back in where it was previously inserted, to wrap the cluster. Pull the wrapping tight and then come up two threads below.

Ladder hem stitch method stage 3 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 3 photograph
3

Insert the needle to the right of the next three fabric threads, ready to work the next hem stitch.

Ladder hem stitch method stage 4 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 4 photograph
4

Wrap around the cluster of fabric threads, as before.

Ladder hem stitch method stage 5 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 5 photograph
5

Come up two threads down from the edge.

Ladder hem stitch method stage 6 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 6 photograph
6

Continue until the end of the drawn thread band. For the ‘ladder’ effect, repeat the hem stitch on the other edge of the withdrawn area.

Ladder hem stitch method stage 7 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 7 photograph
7

Group the same cluster of threads as those in the lower row.

Ladder hem stitch method stage 8 illustration
Ladder hem stitch method stage 8 photograph
8

Continue until the end of the band. To finish, you can secure the working thread inside the edge of the drawn thread band or inside the turned up hem.

Ladder hem stitch

Structure of stitch

Drawn Pulled

Common uses

Border

Embroidery Techniques

Drawn Thread Whitework

Related Stitches

Hem stitch (Drawn Thread)

References

  • Jenny Adin-Christie, Fine whitework (2023) , p.83
  • Mary Thomas’s Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches (1934) , p.114
  • Jennifer Campbell, Ann-Marie Bakewell, Guide to Embroidery Stitches (2004) , p.145