Knotted buttonhole stitch
This stitch is a variation of buttonhole stitch: it has a knot at the end of each of the buttonhole’s ‘legs’.
Knotted buttonhole stitch was certainly in use in the 16th century as it is shown on the edge of woman’s coif, currently held by the Victoria and Albert Museum.
It is in evidence as an edging stitch on various Elizabethan items and also a 19th century Turkish napkin where the stitch is used in both silk and metal thread. Further east, a Sumatran ceremonial betel stand dating from the early 20th century is also embellished with the stitch (currently held by the Art Institute of Chicago).
For more information, see the entry for buttonhole stitch.
Structure of stitch
Mrs Archibald Christie, Samplers and Stitches (1921) , p.26
Mary Thomas, Mary Thomas’s Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches (1934) , p.24–5
'Elizabethan women’s coif ', Victoria and Albert Museum (2021). Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O364614/womens-coif-unknown/ (Accessed: 12 October 2021)
'17th century forehead cloth', Victoria and Albert Museum (2021). Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O357608/forehead-cloth-unknown/?carousel-image=2021MX7434 (Accessed: 12 October 2021)
'17th century stomacher', Victoria and Albert Museum (2021). Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O364609/stomacher-unknown/ (Accessed: 12 October 2021)
Brigitte Khan Majlis. (2007) 'The Art of Indonesian Textiles Catalogue', Art Institute of Chicago Museum Studies pp.28-112. Available at: https://www.jstor.org/stable/20205555
'Ceremonial betel stand cover', Art Institute of Chicago. Available at: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/180405/cover-for-ceremonial-betel-stand-tutuik-or-saputangan-siriah (Accessed: 12 October 2021)