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Japanese stitch icon
Japanese stitch

  • spaced satin stitch
Japanese stitch main image

This stitch is a spaced version of satin stitch.  Long straight stitches are executed in parallel lines, but unlike in satin stitch, the start and end points of the stitches are staggered in a diagonal line.  The stitches are slightly spaced apart so that the ground fabric shows between the stitches; the amount of ground fabric showing can be used to create different effects. 

We have added the descriptive name of ‘spaced satin stitch’ as an alternative name.

The earliest reference to this stitch is found in the 1880 RSN Handbook of Embroidery where it is described as being used for working water or ground in Japanese landscapes, especially when creating an illusion of distance.  The handbook was written during the 19th century craze for japonisme (all things Japanese) which started in the 1860s when trade was opened up between Japan and Europe and America.  It seems probable that the author, Letitia Higgin, had seen the stitch used on Japanese embroideries and documented it under the name ‘Japanese stitch’.  A spaced version of satin stitch is called sugabiki in Japan but Higgin’s diagonally staggered end points is not a definitive characteristic of the stitch.  If this stitch were worked with stitches as long as Higgin’s in Japanese embroidery, the stitches would be couched in place.

This stitch is awaiting a sponsor.

Method

In the example below, relatively short straight stitches are worked. The final photo shows long stitches like Higgin (1880) and Caulfeild and Saward (1882) mention in their books; if you choose to use such long stitches we recommend couching with self-coloured thread to keep them in place.

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1
1

Start with a waste knot. Work the holding stitches on the line that will be covered with the thread later.

2
2

Work evenly spaced horizontal satin stitches in line with the grain of the fabric.  Your stitches should all be worked in the same direction.

3
3

Hide the finishing stitch under the thread.

4
4

The gap between the parallel stitches can be bigger if you need to show more ground fabric to achieve the effect you require.

5
Japanese stitch method stage 5 photograph
5

This shows stitches of 2 inches in length, as recommended by Caulfeild and Saward.

Japanese stitch

Structure of stitch

Embroidery Techniques

Related Stitches

Identifying Japanese stitch

This stitch features long straight stitches which are worked parallel with fabric showing between them.  The start and end points of the stitches are offset so that the embroidered area forms a parallelogram. 

References

  • Letitia Higgin, RSN Handbook of Embroidery (1880) , p.51
  • S. F. A. Caulfeild, Blanche C. Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework (1882) , p.185
  • Mary Thomas’s Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches (1934) , p.137
  • Mary Gostelow, Mary Gostelow’s embroidery book (1979) , p.233