Indian drawn ground stitch
This pulled work stitch is formed of squares across three threads worked in diagonal lines - when pulled they tighten to form a regular pattern of circles. Depending on the weight of the thread used, alternate diagonal lines have a slight ridge along one edge.
This stitch first appears in print in the first part of the 20th century. Mrs Christie indicates that the stitch can be found on “fine white Indian embroidery of fairly modern date” - presumably hence the name. The V&A museum holds several pieces from mid-19th century Dhaka, Bangladesh which feature the stitch used to form repeating diamond patterns.
Method
Bring the needle up towards the bottom right corner of your design area. Take it down three threads to the left and and then back up three threads above.
Take it down three threads to the right and back up three threads below (where it first emerged).
Repeat step 1 over your previous stitching. This forms a square which when pulled will become a circle.
Take your threads down three threads to the left and repeat the steps above to form another circle.
Continue working a diagonal line of circles.
To work back down the area, work the circles clockwise, this time starting at the top left corner.
Continue working circles in a diagonal line, each sharing a single hole with a circle on the previous diagonal line.
A finished area of Indian drawn ground stitch.
The reverse of Indian drawn ground stitch.
Common uses
Embroidery Techniques
Identifying Indian drawn ground stitch
This stitch can be identified by circles or ovals in a grid pattern. Depending on the weight of the thread used, raised diagonal lines of thread may be visible.
References
-
'Chikan embroidered muslin', Victoria and Albert Museum. Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O480376/chikan-embroidered-muslin-unknown/ (Accessed: 11 February 2025)