Hem stitch (Drawn Thread)
- Spoke stitch
Prepare for hem stitch by following one of the drawn thread removal techniques.
Cast on in one corner of the overwoven end, count two threads along and bring the needle up in the open area.
Go back over the same two threads and take the needle down.
Count two threads along and bring the needle up in the same place as before.
Count two threads into the undisturbed fabric and take the needle down.
Count two threads along and bring the needle up in the open section.
Count two threads back and take the needle down, bringing it back up in the original place.
Pull the thread tight to draw the threads together.
Count into the fabric by two threads and take the needle down, while holding the thread tight. This acts as a holding stitch to keep the threads gathered.
Continue all along one edge until the end, fastening off in the overwoven end.
Repeat hem stitch along the upper edge.
A finished sample of hem stitch.
Structure of stitch
Hem stitch is very useful for borders and may be worked on both sides of drawn threads, or just on one side for different effects.
S. F. A. Caulfield, Blanche C. Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework (1882) , p.184
Mrs Archibald Christie, Samplers and Stitches (1921) , p.104–5
Mary Thomas, Mary Thomas’s Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches (1934) , p.111–2