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Hansen stitch

Hansen stitch main image

This stitch resembles a braid stitch with parallel diagonal threads forming a solid line across the centre of the braid. Unlike most of the braid stitches, this stitch is only attached to the fabric at the beginning and the end of the line.

The working method is based on a stitch which features on the bookbinding which covered an English medieval almanac dating from the early 15th century.  It is now held by the Wellcome Collection (see the Examples section at the end of this entry).  The stitch is worked in silk gimp to form a grid pattern.

Jacqui Carey has done extensive investigation into the structure of the original stitch and this version is a reconstruction based on the available evidence.  See the References sections for details of her book which describes her research into the stitches used on the bookbinding.  N.B. the name references Danish scholar Egon H. Hansen who has documented similar structures used in the northern European tradition of nålebinding, or looped needle-netting. This descriptive name has been assigned as historic records do not give us the name by which it was known.

Hansen stitch is generously sponsored by Karen Herbert

Method

See the illustration for step 10 for an alternative diagram which may make the structure clearer.

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1
1

Work a small stitch first and bring the needle up just below the starting point. Make a loop by going under both the first stitch and the working thread.

2
2

Make the second loop by going under both the upper edge of the first loop and the small stitch, and then over the working thread.

3
3

Bring the working thread to the left and under the needle.

4
4

Pull the thread gently so that the thread flips over to form the second loop.

5
5

Insert the needle from right to left under the upper edge of the two previous loops. Then bring the working thread to the left and under the tip of the needle.

6
6

Pull the thread gently so that the thread flips over to form another loop.

7
7

Repeat steps 5 and 6.

8
8

Continue in the same way.

9
9

The thread doesn’t pierce the fabric, so you can hold the end of the loops to continue stitching.

10
10

To finish, take the needle down into the fabric and secure the thread on the reverse.

Hansen stitch

Structure of stitch

Embroidery Techniques

References

Examples of Hansen stitch

English folding almanac in Latin

The grid lines on this section show a stitch which has been reconstructed in this entry as Hansen stitch. The whole piece is approximately 16.5cm long.

Image courtesy of Wellcome Collection

Accession number: MS.8932

https://wellcomecollection.org/works/a2y8zd6x