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Guimped embroidery

  • gimped embroidery
  • Strapping
Guimped embroidery main image

This entry describes the process of laying metal threads across a padded area and anchoring them with couching stitches on either side of the padding, in a similar method to working metal plate.  The metal thread is normally a double length of passing or tambour thread; the padding is traditionally made of cardboard, vellum or parchment but soft string or carpet felt could also be used.  It is a relatively quick way of working metal thread.

This method features widely on historical artefacts and is a popular technique on European court dress in the late 18th century. It is first documented in 19th century publications but does not appear to be named until the 1980s.

For an underside couched version, see guimped embroidery (underside).

add_circleMy Stitches
Laid Couched Raised Filling Embellishment Goldwork

This stitch is awaiting a sponsor.

Method

This method of working guimped embroidery has similarities with working metal plate.
The metal thread can be worked in pairs (as in this example) or as a single thread.
Wax your sewing thread for the couching to protect it from the metal thread.
Pad your design area with your choice of padding.

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1
Guimped embroidery method stage 1 illustration
Guimped embroidery method stage 1 photograph
1

Bring your needle up at the edge of the padding, towards one end.

Padding (goldwork)
2
Guimped embroidery method stage 2 illustration
Guimped embroidery method stage 2 photograph
2

Fold a length of passing to create a double thread and secure the looped end close to the padding with a small stitch.

3
Guimped embroidery method stage 3 illustration
Guimped embroidery method stage 3 photograph
3

Bring the needle up on the other side of the padding slightly ahead and pull on both threads to create a crease in the loop of the passing.

4
Guimped embroidery method stage 4 illustration
Guimped embroidery method stage 4 photograph
4

Lay the metal thread across the padding and couch over it with a back stitch parallel to the edge of the padding so that the metal thread hugs it.

Back stitch
5
Guimped embroidery method stage 5 illustration
Guimped embroidery method stage 5 photograph
5

Return to the other side of the padding, bringing the needle up slightly ahead. Tension the thread before folding the passing back over the padding and making another stitch.

6
Guimped embroidery method stage 6 illustration
Guimped embroidery method stage 6 photograph
6

Continue strapping the passing thread back and forth over the padding securing each side with a back stitch.

7
Guimped embroidery method stage 7 illustration
Guimped embroidery method stage 7 photograph
7

Continue covering the padding and then plunge the passing ends below the surface and secure.

Guimped embroidery

Structure of stitch

Laid Couched Raised

Common uses

Filling Embellishment

Embroidery Techniques

Goldwork

Related Stitches

Couched Raised Band Padding (goldwork) Plate application

Identifying Guimped embroidery

This stitch is padded (although the padding may be quite shallow) and the only couching stitches are either side of the padded area.  Some pieces have another thread which is couched around the edge of the padded area which conceals the original couched threads.  For a version where there are no visible couching stitches, see guimped embroidery (variation).

References

  • Jane Lemon, Metal thread embroidery (1987)
  • W.G. Paulson Townsend, Louisa F. Pesel, Walter Crane, Embroidery or the Craft of the Needle (1907) , p.298-9
  • Emilie Bach, New patterns in old styles (1887) , p.46-7

Examples of Guimped embroidery

18th century embroidered headdress

This 18th century headdress from Schleswig, Germany has been predominantly worked in guimped embroidery. The metal thread has moved slightly which means both the couching stitches and the padding can clearly be seen on this section. The metal thread has been couched in pairs.

Image courtesy of Cleveland Museum of Art

https://www.clevelandart.org/art/1919.856