Gold twist application
Gold twist is a 3-ply twisted gold thread which is anchored with tiny stitches. The stitches are worked at an angle which ensures they sit between the twisted threads and cannot be seen. It is often used to edge motifs, or to form lines.
Gold twist can also be couched in a similar way to gold passing.
This method can also be used to stitch 4 or 5 ply threads; see Elizabethan twist application for a way of working a 2-ply metal thread twist.
To couch over the gold thread: bring the needle out from under the gold, pointing the needle away from the thread. Take the needle over the gold twist and back through the fabric by angling the needle back under the gold on the other side.
The second method is to stitch it down invisibly: bring the needle up on one side of the gold twist.
Look at the single ply that lies closest to the fabric at the point your thread appears from it. Follow this ply backwards with your needle and open the twist by rolling in your fingers.
Take the needle through the twist and into the fabric under the centre of the twist and slightly back from where it emerged to stitch down the single ply. Roll the twist back up so that it tightens the ply and disguises the couching thread.
Structure of stitch
Tracy A Franklin, New ideas in goldwork (2002) , p.43
Examples of Gold twist application
Ecclesiastical sampler (IHS, Lamb of God), RSN Collection No. 243
Gold twist is used to edge the letters IHS and the roundel, plus other motifs.