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Flat cutwork (goldwork) icon
Flat cutwork (goldwork)

​​Cutwork is the cutting of hollow soft-spiral or spring-like metal threads into lengths and then stitching them down like a long bead.

N.B. Flat cutwork should not be confused with Cutwork which is a form of whitework.

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Raised Filling Embellishment Goldwork

Flat cutwork (goldwork) is generously sponsored by June King

Method

When cutting the threads, use a gold board (a flat board covered in velvet) as this protects them from being crushed or bouncing around.

Avoid touching metal threads as much as possible as this causes them to tarnish.  Tweezers and a mellor are useful for this.

Cutwork can be worked flat on to the face of the base fabric or over a single layer of felt. Cut purls can be attached at either 90° or 45° to the felt, depending on the effect you wish to achieve. When working at 90°, start at at one end of your shape; when working at 45°, it is better to start in the middle of the shape and work first to one end and then to the other.

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Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 1 illustration
Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 1 photograph
1

Cut your required shape from felt and attach it to the background fabric using tiny stab stitches worked 2–3mm apart. For further information on attaching felt to fabric, see Felt padding.

Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 2 illustration
Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 2 photograph
2

Using a double, waxed thread, bring the needle through to the front of the fabric from underneath, close to the edge of the felt shape.

Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 3 illustration
Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 3 photograph
3

Thread on an estimated length of the smooth purl and hold in position across the shape, use the needle to dent it at the point where it touches the fabric on the other side.

Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 4 illustration
Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 4 photograph
4

Remove the purl from the thread and ‘cut’ to the required length. You can use this piece as a guide to measure and cut more purls to the desired length.

Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 5 illustration
Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 5 photograph
5

Thread a purl onto the needle and gently manoeuvre it to the base of the thread.

Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 6 illustration
Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 6 photograph
6

Take your needle down, next to the felt padding to stitch the purl in place.

Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 7 illustration
Flat cutwork (goldwork) method stage 7 photograph
7

Continue to secure more purls in the same way, cutting purls to the length that suits the shape to be filled.

Structure of stitch

Raised

Common uses

Filling Embellishment

Embroidery Techniques

Goldwork

Related Stitches

Cutwork purls over soft string Felt padding

Identifying Flat cutwork (goldwork)

​Flat cutwork can be identified as lengths of cut pearl purl stitched either straight onto the base fabric or over one layer of felt. Either way it is able to be identified by its flat or slightly curved effect over the fabric. This differs from other cutwork such as Cutwork purls over soft string which is usually more raised to create a more dramatic effect.

References

  • Various Authors, The Royal School of Needlework Book of Embroidery (2018) , p.239