Elizabethan twist application
Twists can be stitched down in pairs using the couching technique or they may be stitched down in individual strands that require an invisible stitch. The Elizabethan twist is a small-scale twist thread, generally used in conjunction with a coloured thread to fill small areas with gold and a decorative pattern at the same time.
To start off the sewing thread, bring it up through the fabric and pass it through the twist - over the bottom strand and under the top two strands.
Take the needle back down through the same hole.
Pull the thread through to create an invisible stitch.
Continue stitching, passing the thread through the twist as described above and spacing the stitches approximately 3–4mm apart.
To turn a corner, bend the twist round the last stitch made and place a second stitch over the top of it. Lay this stitch over all the strands to create a sharp corner.
As you make the corner stitch, twist the end of the gold thread tightly in the direction of the plies to hold the strands together.
Continue stitching along the twist as before.
Structure of stitch
Identifying Elizabethan twist application
Elizabethan twist can be identified by the presence of a 3-ply twisted metal thread stitched down using an invisible stitch.
Various Authors, The Royal School of Needlework Book of Embroidery (2018) , p.233