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Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (variation one) icon
Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (variation one)

Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (variation one) main image

This plaited braid stitch is similar to Elizabethan plaited braid stitch: the difference is that this version is looped over two threads and under four (the original version is taken over one and under three).  This means the central threads form a sharper angled V-shape than the original version.

We are indebted to Jacqui Carey for her work in identifying this stitch in extant Elizabethan pieces, and diligent documenting of the working method.  See the References sections for details of her books which describe this and many other Elizabethan stitches.  N.B. the names used are descriptive names assigned by Jacqui Carey as historic records do not give us the names by which they were known.

Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (variation one) is generously sponsored by Amanda Power

Method

Steps 1 through to 7 create a starting framework for the stitch, step 8 onwards show the repeating stitch.  When working the stitch you may find it helpful to think of it as two alternate weaving motions: the first goes over two threads and under four, the second goes under three and over one.

You may find a mellor or tapestry needle useful to manipulate the loops of thread.

Use a thread which holds its shape easily, such as a metallic thread.  A thread which cannot be divided can be an advantage as it is easy to accidently split a thread.

Draw or visualise two parallel guidelines.

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1
1

Starting at the end of your design area, bring your needle up between your design lines and take it down on the top line, slightly ahead.

2
2

Bring your needle up on the bottom line, level with where it went down.  Slide your needle under the diagonal stitch from bottom right to top left.

3
3

Throw a loop ahead and slide your needle under the last stitch (from bottom left to top right) and then take it over the loop of the working thread.  Pull to form a loose knot.

4
4

Take your needle down on the top line, a short distance ahead and bring it back up level on the bottom line.

5
5

Slide your needle from bottom right to top left over the previous loop and under both diagonal stitches and the top of the loop.  Pull your thread through.

6
6

Throw a loop ahead and then slide your needle in the direction of travel.  Go under the previous loop and both bottom diagonal threads, and then over the front-most loop and the working thread.

7
7

Take your needle down on the top line and bring it back up level on the bottom line - this completes the starting structure.

8
8

Slide your needle from bottom right to top left over the last two loops and then under both diagonal stitches and the top two loops.  Pull your thread through.

9
9

Throw a loop ahead. Slide your needle in the direction of travel by going under the previous loop and the two previous diagonal threads, and then over the front-most loop and the working thread.

10
10

Take your needle down on the top line,  and bring it up level on the bottom line.  Continue working from step 8.

11
11

A completed line of stitching.

12
12

The reverse of Elizabethan plaited braid stitch variation one

Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (variation one)

Structure of stitch

Embroidery Techniques

Identifying Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (variation one)

This plaited braid stitch can be identified by the the central line of V shapes which are at a steeper angle than for Elizabethan plaited braid stitch.  The threads on the lower part of the braid overlap more than for the original version of the stitch.

The reverse (like most braid stitches) consists of parallel stitches across the width of the stitch.

References

  • Jacqui Carey, Elizabethan Stitches - a guide to historic English needlework (2012) , p.70
  • Jacqui Carey, Sweet Bags - an investigation into 16th and 17th century needlework (2009) , p.89