Elizabethan looped edging
This Elizabethan stitch consists of a series of loops worked onto the edge of another stitch - in this example we show chain stitch, but historically it was worked onto other stitches such as Elizabethan corded Brussels stitch.
The Victoria and Albert Museum, London has an Elizabethan panel which has a version of this looping stitch: silver-gilt passing forms loops around what appears to be a base stitch formed by the same piece of passing, couched using black silk. This combination of stitches has the advantage of maximising the amount of expensive metal thread on the surface and avoids the need to take delicate passing through the fabric. The structure of the loops have similarities with Pekinese stitch and Elizabethan double looped edging.
We are indebted to Jacqui Carey for her work in identifying this stitch in extant Elizabethan pieces, and diligent documenting of the working method. See the References sections for details of her books which describe this and many other Elizabethan stitches. N.B. the names used are descriptive names assigned by Jacqui Carey as historic records do not give us the names by which they were known.
Work from left to right. Bring the needle up near the edge of the chain stitch. Take the thread to the right and pass the needle under the top half of the second chain.
Bring the thread to the left and pass the needle under the top half of the first chain and over the working thread to create a loop.
Bring the thread to the right again and pass the needle under the top half of the next chain.
Bring the thread to the left, pass the needle under the top half of the previous chain and over the working thread.
Continue in the same manner as required. To finish, take the needle down through the fabric near the chain stitch. Secure the thread on the reverse side.
Structure of stitch
Identifying Elizabethan looped edging
This stitch is always worked into another surface or edging stitch. It is characterised by loops which are worked around two entry points; for a version which loops around more entry points, see Elizabethan double looped edging.
Jacqui Carey, Elizabethan Stitches - a guide to historic English needlework (2012) , p.102
'Elizabethan panel', Victoria and Albert Museum. Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O319538/panel-unknown/ (Accessed: 14 November 2023)