Elizabethan French stitch
Elizabethan French stitch is a counted thread stitch where two vertical threads are tied in the centre with two horizontal threads. It is similar to the modern version of French stitch, but the direction of the tying threads is different with results in a more rounded effect. It also has similarities with rococo stitch, although the modern version of rococo has four vertical threads, rather than Elizabethan French stitch’s two. The Elizabethan version is normally worked in diagonal lines.
We are indebted to Jacqui Carey for her work in identifying this stitch in extant Elizabethan pieces, and diligent documenting of the working method. See the References sections for details of her books which describe this and many other Elizabethan stitches. N.B. the names used are descriptive names assigned by Jacqui Carey as historic records do not give us the names by which they were known.
Further Reading
Stitch supporters: Test Sponsor.
Method
Make a vertical stitch over 4 threads, lying top to bottom.
Leave the stitch loose on the surface, looped to the right.
Bring the needle up in the centre of the stitch to the left of the surface loop. Make a horizontal stitch to the right over 2 canvas threads securing the loose stitch.
Bring the needle up 2 intersections up and left. Make a vertical stitch over 4 threads, lying top to bottom.
This time leave the stitch loose looped to the left.
Bring the needle up in the centre of the stitch to the right of the surface loop. Make a horizontal stitch to the left over 2 canvas threads securing the loose stitch.
Count up 4 canvas threads and repeat the last four steps.
Continue working your stitches so they form a diagonal line.
To find the starting position for the next row, count four canvas threads to the right. You can either turn the canvas and repeat the last row or work the long stitches lying bottom to top.
Continue working stitches to fill the design area.
A photo showing the reverse of the pattern.
Common uses
Embroidery Techniques
Related Stitches
References
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Jacqui Carey, Sweet Bags - an investigation into 16th and 17th century needlework (2009) , p.84
Examples of Elizabethan French stitch
Reproduction Elizabethan sweet bag with geometric pattern.
Reproduction of a sweet bag in the Victoria & Albert Museum (T.204-1928), stitched by Jacqui Carey. Elizabethan French stitch is used for the background.