Elizabethan double looped edging
This stitch is formed by a line of coral stitch, with a thread looped around it in a similar way to Pekinese stitch. The loops span two knots, so each loop overlaps both the preceding and following loops which gives a textured line.
N.B. the term ‘edging’ indicates that the loops of the stitch are edging the coral stitch, rather than edging a piece of fabric.
We are indebted to Jacqui Carey for her work in identifying this stitch in extant Elizabethan pieces, and diligent documenting of the working method. See the References sections for details of her books which describe this and many other Elizabethan stitches. N.B. the names used are descriptive names assigned by Jacqui Carey as historic records do not give us the names by which they were known.
Work a line of coral stitch and then start your metal thread by bringing it up at the bottom.
Count up two knots, and working from left to right, slide your needle under the thread between the second and third knots.
Count back two coral knots, and working from right to left, slide your needle under both the coral stitch thread and the top of the previous loop. Pull your thread through.
Slide your needle from left to right under the next empty space between the coral knots.
Count back two coral knots, and working from right to left, slide your needle under all four threads and pull through. This is very similar to step 2, but there are more threads go underneath.
Structure of stitch
Identifying Elizabethan double looped edging
This stitch consists of a central line of coral stitch, outlined with overlapping loops of thread. Historically, the loops are frequently worked in metal thread, the coral stitch is more likely to be worked in silk. Also see Elizabethan looped edging for a version of this where the loops overlap less.
The looping thread only pierces the fabric at the start and end of the line.
Jacqui Carey, Elizabethan Stitches - a guide to historic English needlework (2012) , p.104