Counted satin stitch
This is a variation of satin stitch which is worked on an evenweave fabric. The stitch direction can be vertical, horizontal or diagonal and is usually used to form geometric patterns.
Some forms of cutwork use counted satin stitch as an edging stitch.
Counted satin stitch featured frequently on English samplers, as demonstrated by a late 17th century example currently held by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. It was also popular in Turkish embroidery from the 18th century where it embellished garments and other textiles: the V&A holds several such examples.
It is also a popular stitch in Hardanger embroidery from western Norway. Hardanger is a counted thread technique which uses blocks of satin stitch (sometimes called kloster blocks) to form geometric designs.
Further Reading
Method
This pattern is made with square blocks of diagonal stitches, alternating with blank squares.
This pattern consists entirely of horizontal stitches over six threads. Blocks of three stitches are arranged in a bricked pattern.
This pattern has alternating diagonal rows. Each row has pairs of either vertical or horizontal stitches. Two rows are worked with stranded cotton, then two with coton à broder and so on.
This image shows some counted satin stitches in Hardanger embroidery, including the Kloster blocks (five stitches over four threads) as shown in the illustration.
Structure of stitch
Embroidery Techniques
References
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'17th century whitework sampler', Victoria and Albert Museum (2021). Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O359932/sampler-mason-margret/ (Accessed: 19 October 2021)
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'Turkish bath wrap panel', Victoria and Albert Museum (2021). Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O51868/bath-wrap-panel-unknown/ (Accessed: 19 October 2021)
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'19th century Turkish trouser panel', Victoria and Albert Museum (2021). Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O51357/trouser-panel-unknown/ (Accessed: 19 October 2021)
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Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 'Hardanger embroidery', TRC Leiden (2017). Available at: https://www.trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/regional-traditions/europe-and-north-america/embroideries/hardanger-embroidery-norway (Accessed: 25 August 2021)