clear navigate_before

Couched Raised Band icon
Couched Raised Band

  • Guimped embroidery (underside)
Couched Raised Band main image

This entry describes the process of laying metal threads across a padded area and underside couching them on either side of the padding.  This means that the metal thread is pulled through and secured on the reverse of fabric and so no couching stitches are visible on the surface.  The metal thread is normally tambour thread or passing; the padding is traditionally made of cardboard, vellum or parchment but soft string or carpet felt could also be used.  It is a relatively quick way of working metal thread.

This method features widely on historical artefacts: it is first documented in the early 1900s by Grace Christie who calls it couched raised band.

For a version where the couching threads remain on the surface, see guimped embroidery.

add_circleMy Stitches
Laid Couched Raised Filling Embellishment Goldwork

Couched Raised Band is generously sponsored by Ann Marie Howden.

Method

Japanese thread is not a practical choice to be couched, instead use something more pliable like a fine metal thread, passing or even a silk.

pan_tool
1
Couched Raised Band method stage 1 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 1 photograph
1

Starting a little in from the end of the padding, bring your needle and a strong sewing thread up to the surface close to the padding edge.

2
Couched Raised Band method stage 2 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 2 photograph
2

Leaving a decent length tail, lay a single fine metal thread over the padding and couch it down by taking the sewing thread back down in the same hole.

3
Couched Raised Band method stage 3 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 3 photograph
3

Increase the tension of the sewing thread enough to pull the crease of the fine metal thread just through to the underside of the fabric.

4
Couched Raised Band method stage 4 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 4 photograph
4

Bring the needle up on the other side of the padding and repeat the couching stitch by taking the sewing thread over the couched metal thread and back down the same hole.

5
Couched Raised Band method stage 5 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 5 photograph
5

Gently pull through a little of the metal thread to the underside.

6
Couched Raised Band method stage 6 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 6 photograph
6

Bring the needle up on the other side, fold the metal thread across the padding and repeat the couching stitch.

7
Couched Raised Band method stage 7 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 7 photograph
7

Continue along the length of padding, zigzagging both the couched thread on the surface and the sewing thread on the back.

8
Couched Raised Band method stage 8 illustration
Couched Raised Band method stage 8 photograph
8

Once the padding is covered each of the metal thread ends should be plunged to create a pleasing outline.

9
Couched Raised Band method stage 9 photograph
9

The view of the reverse.

Couched Raised Band

Structure of stitch

Laid Couched Raised

Common uses

Filling Embellishment

Embroidery Techniques

Goldwork

Related Stitches

Underside couching Guimped embroidery Padding (goldwork)

Identifying Couched Raised Band

This stitch is padded (although the padding may be quite shallow) and has no visible couching stitches either across or around the padded area.  For a version where does have visible couching stitches around the edge of the padding, see guimped embroidery.

On the reverse the couching thread runs to and fro in a zigzag fashion, pulling the couched thread only just through the fabric.

References

  • Grace Christie, Embroidery and tapestry weaving; a practical textbook of design and workmanship (1906) , p.246-7
  • Mrs Archibald Christie, Samplers and Stitches (1921) , p.138-141