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Buttonhole scallops icon
Buttonhole scallops

  • Ring picot
Buttonhole scallops main image

​Buttonhole scallops are made of detached buttonhole stitches; the length and the thickness of the core thread determines the size of the scallop. The buttonhole scallops can be stitched singly or in lines, large or small. Sometimes they are used to decorate the edge of fabric: when pulled into a circular shape, rather than the semi-circle shown here, they are known as a ring picot.

This is a variant of buttonhole stitch; for more information see the entry for buttonhole stitch.  N.B. buttonhole stitch is called Punto a festone in Italy which comes from the garland shape formed by these scallops on the edges of lace (festone means garland, see also festoon filling stitch).

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Looped Raised Detached Buttonhole Embellishment Edging Stumpwork Surface Whitework

Buttonhole scallops is generously sponsored by Elaina Friend

Method

When using a sharp needle, you can use the eye of the needle when making detached buttonhole stitches. You can change the needle to a tapestry needle if you find it easier.

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Buttonhole scallops method stage 1 photograph
1

Insert a pin vertically into the fabric and make a stitch from left to right, taking the thread around the head of the pin. This will be the size of the scallop. Bring the needle back up just to the left of the start of the first stitch.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 2 photograph
2

Form the first detached buttonhole stitch by taking the needle under the stitch and through the loop that has been formed.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 3 photograph
3

Pull the thread to form a detached buttonhole stitch.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 4 photograph
4

Continue making detached buttonhole stitches.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 5 photograph
5

Remove the pin as you approach the centre of the scallop.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 6 photograph
6

When the scallop is filled with the detached buttonhole stitches, take the needle through to the back of the work.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 7 photograph
7

To make a row of scallops, insert a pin again, taking the thread around the pin as before. Bring the needle back up again to start the detached buttonhole stitches.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 8 photograph
8

Work detached buttonhole stitches along the second scallop.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 9 photograph
9

Repeat for the third scallop.

Buttonhole scallops method stage 10 photograph
10

You can continue to make as many buttonhole scallops as you wish. Subsequent rows of scallops can be made to good effect.

Buttonhole scallops

Structure of stitch

Looped Raised Detached Buttonhole

Common uses

Embellishment Edging

Embroidery Techniques

Stumpwork Surface Whitework

Related Stitches

Buttonhole bars Buttonhole bars (cutwork) Buttonhole couronne Buttonhole stitch

Identifying Buttonhole scallops

​A buttonhole scallop can be identified as a row of buttonhole stitches along a length of thread which is attached to the base fabric at both ends, much like an attached buttonhole bar. The difference between the two is the length of thread used by the buttonhole scallop onto which the buttonhole stitches have been created - the scallop’s thread is longer between the two holes from which it is attached to the fabric, thus creating a loop rather than a straight stitch.

References

  • Various Authors, The Royal School of Needlework Book of Embroidery (2018) , p.275