- Ring picot
Buttonhole scallops are made of detached buttonhole stitches; the length and the thickness of the core thread determines the size of the scallop. The buttonhole scallops can be stitched singly or in lines, large or small. Sometimes they are used to decorate the edge of fabric: when pulled into a circular shape, rather than the semi-circle shown here, they are known as a ring picot.
This is a variant of buttonhole stitch; for more information see the entry for buttonhole stitch. N.B. buttonhole stitch is called Punto a festone in Italy which comes from the garland shape formed by these scallops on the edges of lace (festone means garland, see also festoon filling stitch).
Insert a pin vertically into the fabric and make a stitch from left to right, taking the thread around the head of the pin. This will be the size of the scallop. Bring the needle back up just to the left of the start of the first stitch.
Form the first detached buttonhole stitch by taking the needle under the stitch and through the loop that has been formed.
Pull the thread to form a detached buttonhole stitch.
Continue making detached buttonhole stitches.
Remove the pin as you approach the centre of the scallop.
When the scallop is filled with the detached buttonhole stitches, take the needle through to the back of the work.
To make a row of scallops, insert a pin again, taking the thread around the pin as before. Bring the needle back up again to start the detached buttonhole stitches.
Work detached buttonhole stitches along the second scallop.
Repeat for the third scallop.
You can continue to make as many buttonhole scallops as you wish. Subsequent rows of scallops can be made to good effect.
Structure of stitch
Identifying Buttonhole scallops
A buttonhole scallop can be identified as a row of buttonhole stitches along a length of thread which is attached to the base fabric at both ends, much like an attached buttonhole bar. The difference between the two is the length of thread used by the buttonhole scallop onto which the buttonhole stitches have been created - the scallop’s thread is longer between the two holes from which it is attached to the fabric, thus creating a loop rather than a straight stitch.
Various Authors, The Royal School of Needlework Book of Embroidery (2018) , p.275